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‘Nothing can beat craft from Lucknow’
Heartwarming victories, tearful tributes, intense performances — the 62nd Grammy Awards witnessed a night brimming with emotions London-based designer Mani Kohli on what makes the various types of Awadhi embroidery a big draw
Grammy Awards 2020 saw those rare moments when happiness and grief intermingle, stirring a whirlpool of emotions. The night celebrated heartwarming victories, and also paid tearful farewells. Billie Eilish, the teenage goth-pop icon, emerged as the big winner, taking home five trophies at the 62nd award ceremony held at the Staples Center, Los Angeles on Sunday. Eilish, 18, swept the four big prizes — Album of the Year, Song of the Year, Record of the Year and Best New Artist.
The music world also mourned the loss of hometown basketball hero Kobe Bryant and his 13-year-old daughter, Gianna Maria Onore Bryant, who died in a helicopter crash a few hours before the ceremony. Lizzo, who won three awards, including best pop solo performance for Truth Hurts and two R&B awards, dedicated her performance to Bryant, in the very arena where the NBA icon made history with the Los Angeles Lakers. “Tonight is for Kobe,” shouted the 31-yearold. Host Alicia Keys said she was feeling “crazy sad” about Bryant. She was joined on stage with Boyz II Men, who collectively sang It’s So Hard to Say Goodbye to Yesterday.
Lizzo was among the mix of newcomers and well-known acts that won their first-ever Grammy, which included Tanya Tucker, J Cole, DJ Khaled, Eilish, Lil Nas X, Billy Ray Cyrus, Sara Bareilles, Rosalia, 21 Savage and Tyler, the Creator.
DJ Khaled, John Legend, Meek Mill, Kirk Franklin, Roddy Ricch and YG, gave a tribute to rapper Nipsey Hussle, who died last year. Hussle also posthumously won his first pair of Grammys.
Demi Lovato, who was away from the public eye, focusing on recovery after reportedly overdosing in July 2018, gave a stirring performance that led to a standing ovation. Overcome by emotions, she had to restart her song. Camila Cabello dedicated her performance on First Man to her father. Both father and daughter broke down as Cabello walked down to his seat while singing the song penned especially for him. Lil Nas X brought the story of Old Town Road to life by performing alongside Mason
Ramsey, Diplo, the track’s main co-star, Billy Ray Cyrus as well as BTS, thus making them the first K-pop artistes to perform at the Grammys. Beyoncé’s concert special Homecoming won best music film, while Michelle Obama won best spoken word album for the audio version of her book Becoming. Neither was present to accept the award. Indian music maestro AR Rahman also attended the awards, and shared videos of performances.
London-based fashion designer Mani Kohli has a long list of celebrities she has adorned with her designs. The list includes British ex-PM Theresa May, singer Beyonce Knowles, stars of the movie ‘Bend It Like Bekham’ and Prince Andrews.
She has a very special connection with Lucknow where she got married in 1978 before moving to London. The journey that started then became stronger with her garments sporting motifs from Awadhi craft and the city remaining her sourcing point.
“It was all possible because Lucknow was my stronghold and no one can beat ‘nafees’ (fine), beautifully hand-crafted garments that are made here. Except for some Banglorian and Manglorian nuns who used to do resham work for me no one can be beat what Lucknow has to offer – be it resham, zardozi, kamdani, tabka or chikankari,” she said.
Work keeps bringing her back to Lucknow but this visit was special. “From 1980 to 2020, the artisan families working with me are the same. I am here to attend to the marriage of the person whom I am now associated with for three generations. They are part of my journey where I stand today,” said the designer.
LUCKNOW TO LONDON
“I had great interest in clothing. My husband knew this, so, before we left for London, he took me to Chowk, from where I purchased chikankari and zardozi saris.In London, I faced a culture shock as locals were conditioned to expect Asians to be mediocre. Due to my education (in Shillong) and exposure, I was not ready to take it. I noticed that Asians in Britain were not dressed well which was very demoralising for me. When I went well-dressed they appreciated it a lot. Slowly, I started helping my friends with dresses which gave me confidence,” she said.
She sourced zari work from Lucknow which was according to the local taste and colours that were apprec iated. “I used to sell through car boot sales on the roadside, do coffee sessions and my fusion apparels started selling through mouth-to-mouth publicity. I launched my label Khubsoorat in 1985, a name every Indian and Asian can connect with,” she said.
MAKING IT BIG
She credits India Tourism Board for their support. “In 1991, fashion shows rarely happened. So, I trained Asian girls and boys from East London and we did a two-day show, where we had an audience of 57,000, a record not broken till today. That changed things for me. Music videos, bridal apparels and so on.”
Mani remembers how initially she used to fly to her hometown, New Delhi, with material for 30 suits and then carry the load to Lucknow by train. “I used to give material to be embroidered, take it back to Delhi to get it stitched at our production house and return to London. This continued for 2-3 years. From 30 suits, it grew to 300 to 3,000 and more. I started making trail lenhgas and corsets all from Lucknow,” she said. Today, she has a team of 60-65 persons spread across Lucknow, Delhi and London. “We do 60-65 garments a month. I have kept it like that and have not got greedy to go beyond that as then I won’t be able to do it. Now my daughter and son want to take it beyond and I am more than happy if they do that on the digital platform. They both have their own label as well,” she said.
The designer is happy becoming a mentor and passing on her legacy to her children. “Starting at 19 years of age, then having a broken marriage, establishing myself, to now becoming the first choice for British Asians, it has been a very satisfying journey,” she says.
Besides work, she feels happy “de-stressing” herself in Lucknow amidst friends.
It was all possible because Lucknow was my stronghold and no one can beat ‘nafees’ (fine), beautifully hand-crafted garments that are made here MANI KOHLI
FASHION DESIGNER
THE SUNNY LEONE CONNECT
Mani has restricted herself to British Asians in the UK. “I did a Sunny Leone collection and many people asked me why. For me, she was just an Asian outside India, struggling to make a name, irrespective of the career she chose. I too struggled to make a name outside, so that is the answer to the ‘why’,” she said.