Hindustan Times (Lucknow)

Fading fragrances of Kannauj may soon go green

Conversion of wood furnaces into bio gas ones to cut costs, protect environmen­t

- Pankaj Jaiswal

For centuries, Kannauj has been India’s perfume capital. To this day, the town’s romance with the world of natural fragrances and flavours endures. But the industry is full of smoke and soot, as a few ounces of fragrance need quintals of wood—an environmen­t and health hazard.

Now, the Bio Energy Mission Cell (BEMC) and the Department of Science and Technology (DST), UP are out to change this, through conversion of the traditiona­l wood furnaces into bio gas ones--smokeless, tearless, soot-free, healthy and above all profitable for the users.

Kannauj bur ns tonnes of wood each day in its nearly 125 perfume units, where scents are distilled by heating flowers in massive degs (stills). Each of the 125 perfume units has multiple degs, the total coming to nearly 8,500. One deg burns nearly 1.5 quintals of wood each day and the industry works 350 days a year. This means a lot of tree felling. “An owner spends wood at least worth R 1,000 per deg, while the cost of bio gas would come to just R 800 per week per deg,” said PS Ojha, state coordinato­r of MEMC. But the owner will have to shell out R 2 lakh per deg for making an undergroun­d bio gas plant.

Ojha said that a prototype bio gas plant for perfume distillati­on was already in place at the institute of Flavours and Fragrances Developmen­t Corporatio­n (FFDC), Kannauj. It had been tested and would become operationa­l in 10 days, to showcase it to the perfume industry.

This model of Bio Energy Mission Cell is simple, clean and maintenanc­e free. It needs only 20% of gobar (cattle dung) unlike the traditiona­l gobar gas plants that require massive amount of dung. The rest of the material to ferment gas could just be any biomass—plant wastes, planktons like water hyacinth, bio waste out of kitchens or vegetable markets and mandis and above all the waste generated out of biomass that comes out after the essential oils from petals are distilled.

Neither the BEMC nor the DST would build the plants. They would run a training programme to train some batches of

MUGHAL PATRONAGE MADE THE PERFUME INDUSTRY IN KANNAUJ FLOURISH. IT IS ALSO RENOWNED FOR MAKING NATURAL FRAGRANCES LIKE ROSE AND KEWRA FOR ADDING FLAVOURS TO FOOD

local Kannauj masons/youth in plant constructi­on. The owner would have to engage those trained people for plant constructi­on.

USING ORGANIC FLOWERS

Though the fragrances and flavours produced by Kannauj scent industry do not go through any chemical process and chemicals are not used, the flowers are not really organic. Insecticid­es, pesticides and fertiliser­s are used in the flowers farms from where the petals come. But the slurry that would come out of bio gas plant is an excellent bio-fertiliser. Thus the itra units can sell the slurry to farmers to make the flowers organic. Organic itra would increase internatio­nal market value of Kannauj itra.

Kannauj perfume industry is struggling due to higher production cost and lowering demand due to increased use of synthetic flavours and fragrances or lowered export. Biogas would bring down fuels cost drasticall­y and increase profits.

Even if half of the units switch to biogas, Kannauj just might become India’s biggest biogas cluster.

Kannauj has been chief minister Akhilesh Yadav’s Lok Sabha constituen­cy and is now his wife Dimple Yadav’s constituen­cy. From time to time, both have been assuring the perfume industry’s emancipati­on.

CLAIM TO FAME

Kannauj’s rise to fame as India’s perfume capital began a century before Grasse emerged as France’s leading fragrance centre in the 17th century. Though the French city has now lost its traditiona­l system of ‘enfleurage’ for perfume extraction from flowers to modern methods, Kannauj retains its ancient technique. Not many know that Noorjehan, the Mughal queen, discovered and developed the process for the preparatio­n of attar from roses. This laid the foundation for distillati­on of all kinds of attars from flowers or herbs. Before that, sandal, musk, camphor or saffron were used as aroma or perfume with isolation and extraction of the scents in them.

Mughal patronage made the perfume industry in Kannauj flourish. It is also renowned for making natural fragrances like rose and kewra for adding flavours to food. “We (people from Kannauj) go to Odisha to make kewra perfume, because the flowers cannot be transporte­d to Kannauj for processing. Only fresh flowers and herbs are used to distill fragrances. We travel with our parapherna­lia all the way (to Odisha) because our expertise, experience and equipment are not available anywhere else,” says Abdul Malik Rauf, owner of KS Shaikh Abdul Rauf factory that was establishe­d in 1818.

 ?? HT PHOTO ?? Under constructi­on bio gas plant in Kannauj. The concrete cylindrica­l structures are called digesters in which bio mass like cattle dung is put, while the smaller pvc pipes jutting out of brick support would give out bio gas.
HT PHOTO Under constructi­on bio gas plant in Kannauj. The concrete cylindrica­l structures are called digesters in which bio mass like cattle dung is put, while the smaller pvc pipes jutting out of brick support would give out bio gas.
 ??  ?? A perfume maker inspecting his smoke-charred ‘degs’ at his ‘itra’ unit in Kannauj.
A perfume maker inspecting his smoke-charred ‘degs’ at his ‘itra’ unit in Kannauj.

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