Hindustan Times (Lucknow)

Now, nihari in a chicken avatar!

- Oliver Fredrick oliver.fredrick@hindustant­imes.com n

LUCKNOW: The city’s iconic eateries, famous for their ‘Oudhi nihari’ prepared from buffalo meat and mutton, have now started serving the dish prepared from chicken in wake of the ongoing ‘meat crisis’ in UP. This switchover, they said, is the ‘need of an hour’.

Tunday Kababi that serves world famous galauti kababs was first to replace its popular buffalo meat kababs with chicken ones. Others have followed suit and have started experiment­ing with chicken dishes.

“The only option left with the eateries here is either to remain closed till buffalo meat is available or go with dishes made from mutton and chicken that are more or less available,” said a restaurant owner.

Mubeens is perhaps the first to start selling chicken nihari. “Buffalo meat is not available, hence we replaced it with chicken,” said Shoeb Rizwan Quraishi, owner of the outlet, which was establishe­d in early 1970s.

“It is proving to be the best replacemen­t for buffalo meat nihari. But the costing cannot be matched. Buffalo meat nihari costs Rs 50 whereas chicken nihari is for Rs 85 (half plate),” he added.

“The switchover (from buffalo meat to chicken/mutton) was much needed to provide livelihood to hundreds of labourers engaged in the food business,” said owners of some eateries. They said there is not much change in the taste of nihari after the switchover.

The chefs, however, have a different opinion. “Use of chicken in making nihari is sheer tampering of the traditiona­l recipe. Nihari is a delicacy made from buffalo/mutton shanks and is cooked along with some select spices and herbs on slow fire.

Such kind of preparatio­n with chicken is unimaginab­le,” said Izzat Hussain, eminent chef and an expert in traditiona­l Oudhi cuisines.

Hussain said nihari used to be the labourers’ food, which later evolved into a speciality.

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