Couture’s protectionist streak
Fall Winter 2020 edition of Paris digital couture showcase was an artistic reaction to the pandemic. And it wasn’t surprising to see couturiers send out strong messages of social distancing and sustainability through their creations. Designer duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren exhibited a salon-style presentation, comprising exaggerated silhouettes with conical spikes — a cheeky hint at social distancing. On the other hand, Giambattista Valli, staying true to his core romanticism, sent out models in tulle headgears that doubled up as masks — a strong nod to the pandemic.
Designer Rahul Mishra’s artistic masks, appliqued with his signature butterflies, had multiple interpretations. “My artisans are like butterflies and
I see myself as a gardener. Hence, I grow flowers that offer nectar to them. When the Covid-19 hit, I saw cities drying up, and there were no butterflies or migrant artisans,” shares Mishra, hinting at providing sustainable employment to craft communities.
Stylist Divyak D’Souza opines that today there is a tussle between the artistic and commercial aspects of jobs, and couture is one place where designers can go all out. “While Rahul’s mask was a fantasy dream, Valli’s soft tulle version had a romantic take. It’s a difficult time for the world but great art can come out of it. The mood is such,” says D’Souza.
Stylist Akshay Tyagi sees couture visuals resonating with our circumstances. “Fashion has a way of offering an immediate reaction to changing situations. Viktor and Rolf’s creations this time had an extra edge around them,” says Tyagi.