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A BITE INTO KULFI’S DELICIOUS JOURNEY
Matka or stick, the traditional Indian ice-cream has its own appeal. Here’s a brief history of kulfis and where in Delhi you can enjoy some delectable ones
The bliss of relishing a kulfi on a sultry summer day is inexplicable. From being served in a humble earthen pot called matka with traditional recipes, to being reimagined in myriad flavours at some five star restaurant, the Indian ice cream or kulfi has come a long way. And while gorging on this delicious Indian ice cream, we delved into the details and tried to find out more about its origin and history, and bring to you some kulfi joints in Delhi that offer both traditional and gourmet varieties.
KULFI VS. ICE CREAM
Kulfi’s consistency is creamier and thicker as compared to ice cream. And unlike ice cream, kulfi is not whipped. It is made by cooking the milk very slowly, while ice cream is made with sugar, cream, milk and has air whipped into it during freezing. Most of the flavoured kulfis served these days are milk free and are called kulfi julpeps. Flavours include imli, pomegranate, guava, litchi and aam panna.
HISTORY OF KULFI
Among a whole lot of things that Mughals gave us, kulfi will remain the most relished. It was invented in the 16th century, during emperor Akbar’s rule. The frozen dairy dessert derives its name from Persian ‘qulfi’, which means covered up. Traditionally, kulfi used to be served in earthern pots or matka, which was then covered with a small piece of fabric tied with a string.
“During Akbar’s reign, poet laureate Abu’l Fazl mentioned that they transported ice from the Himalayas for cooling drinks and other purposes. Accidentally or by experiment, someone found out that if you add salt to the ice, it can freeze. They must have frozen the sherbet, they used to make with milk and that’s how kulfi came into existence,” says historian Rana Safvi.
KULFI KINGS OF DELHI
Delhi has some amazing kulfi joints that offer such multifarious options in flavours that you are spoilt for choice. The famous ones are Kuremal Mohan Lal Kulfi Wale located in the heart of Old Delhi. They have been in business for more than a hundred years and have more than 25 flavours. Historian Rana Safvi swears by the kulfi from this joint, with the jamun kulfi being her favourite. “For travellers who walk past the by lanes of Old Delhi, the flavoursome kulfi from this joint is a welcome respite from the scorching heat,” she says.
The other popular kulfi makers in the city are Raviraj Di Kulfi and Roshan Di Kulfi, located on the bustling by lanes of Karol Bagh. Both the kulfi makers had their forefathers doing the business and they took it forward by adding more varieties to it.
Raviraj Di Kulfi still follows the traditional method of preparing the dessert, where milk is heated and stirred for 4 to 5 hours to turn it into condensed milk. So, 40 litres of milk boils down to 20 litres after the process. After which it is frozen and flavours are added, accordingly. It’s an art to quickly remove the frozen kulfi from the matka and cut it into pieces to serve with falooda (sweet vermicelli). For the diet conscious people, Raviraj Di Kulfi also has a sugar free option.
Garima Verma
She had earmarked the area where she was going for the kill. A barren land right next to the water body would mean that she had locked on to a weakened crocodile. Its place of rest would soon be its final resting place. Machali, the legendary Ranthambore National Park tigress, appeared from nowhere, semi-circled around the reptile and went straight for the neck. Some resistance from the prey meant that the beast flung her 250-plus kg frame on the back of the crocodile while still holding on to its neck. That was the endgame. One from the family
of those brazen creatures — lurking around while in the water or even troublesome during the game — was taken out for good. A lesson was taught.
That overhauling of a 14-foot crocodile was one of the many fabled stories of Queen Machali, who ruled the jungles of Ranthambore for a good part of six years over a lifespan of close to 19 years (1996-97 to 2016). And, where did this majestic Royal Bengal queen rule? It was the priced catch among all of 352-sq-km of land at the tiger reserve — the area around the old fort overlooking a lake. It meant water was in abundance and so was the prey. Machali could eat, drink and make merry. Such was her cult that tourists from around the world would flock to the reserve every year just to see her. There have been estimates of her contributing close to $10 million a year for close to 10 years to the economy of the area.
ALL IN THE FAMILY
And, there is more. She also gave birth to 11 cubs (some claim more) and it is believed that most of the wild beasts of the species are prowling around in Ranthambore (62 according to 2014 census) and Sariska (2018 census put the number at 18).
But the tigresses aren’t regarded family oriented. It was her own daughter Sundari aka T-17 who fought and ousted Machali from her famed territory. In the end, poetic justice wasn’t served as Machali had vociferously defended her territory and her cubs from any adventure that other beasts had planned, only to be sent into exile by her own flesh and blood. In this breed of the cat family, it is the tigress who owns the territory while the male wanders around. While millions were devastated by the news of Machali making the heavenly abode in 2016, with all the glory of Hindu rituals, the heartbreak did not last long. Machali’s granddaughter Arrowhead soon took over the lake area.
RISE OF A NEW STAR
With a mark that looks like an arrow on the left side of her head, Arrowhead has the ferocity of Machali (who had a fish mark on her face) while also the shyness of her mother T-19 aka Jhalara Female. To many wildlife enthusiasts, Arrowhead has a striking resemblance to her grandmother and an attitude that goes with it.
Recently, on my trip to the national park, I was eager to catch a glimpse of the latest sensation. As I waited with bated breath, there she rose from among the wild bushes, soon after an afternoon nap for that walk late into the night. Tigers are nocturnal animals and loners for most of their lives. She came out, yawned and stretched as the activity grew with a slew of jeeps trying to beat one another in order to catch that magical look. Unbothered, she walked away but not before stopping and looking back for a moment, as to say ‘fans I tell you’.
THE RIGHT TIME
And, these are some of the tales that make the park a must visit, especially in the months of April to June. With the mercury rising, the animal comes out to have water at least twice — morning and evening — and with them come the cubs.
Just recently, Arrowhead was spotted with her two cubs — after she had lost a couple last year. Tigress Noor (the authorities do add a secular sentiment to names in this day and age) was also meandering with her young ones to the awe and cheer of one and all. While earlier zones 1 to 5 (out of 10) were regarded the ‘lucky’ ones for sightings, these days they are considered just numbers.
Perhaps the authorities in this part of the world have got up from their slumber and realised how important a booming tiger population is for survival as in 2005, the number was a mere 26 in Ranthambore and zero in Sariska in 2006.