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THE TWO TONE TEXTILE TALE
Prerna Gauba Sibbal
Back in 1959, French fashion house, Dior designed a pair of court shoes in the houndstooth pattern. It was then that this century-old fabric got into the mainstream. Soon it was translated into hats, dresses, shoes, belts, purses, wallpapers, jackets and blazers and seen on runways as design houses such as Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, showcased their interpretation of the pattern.
However, the pattern that originated in Scotland in the 1800s as a woven-wool fabric and traditionally worn by shepherds, was then known as shepherds-tooth. Designers tell us how the fabric is made in India as well.
“In Bihar and Kadarpur, there are clusters that make houndstooth by twisting silks,” explains designer Rina Dhaka. And what makes this fabric work even today? It is the graphic visual. “It looks beautiful because of the graphic visual. One can zoom in and zoom out of the pattern for different takes on it. Now, 3D texture on houndstooth, lightweight organza with the pattern have popped up,” says designer Anand Bhushan, who has reinterpreted the motif in mulmul, glass, leather and knit.
If you thought a houndstooth ensemble made you look hopelessly nerdy, then you’re probably wrong as designers have given it an au courant twist this season. “I used to wear my father’s coat as it gave a nice nerdy look. Wraps, wide-leg pants and phiranstyle jackets in this pattern are also great in winters,” suggests Dhaka. “Play with graphics and mix it up with other fabrics,” adds Bhushan. A pantsuit in houndstooth can also be a great pick. Team a turtle-neck with a houndstooth skirt and stockings. For a subtle play, go for a two-tone pattern scarf and in the winters wear a tweed dress with a houndstooth overcoat.