Exploring Jhajjar, its culture and quirks
The town of Jhajjar is about an hour’s drive from Gurugram. Historically, the town had a nearby settlement called Malokan — destroyed during Muhammed Ghori’s invasion of Delhi. Jhajjar was then reconstructed by a local leader, Chajju Jat. The town remained under feudal leaders during the Sultanate and Mughal periods and was part of the Delhi subah during Akbar’s reign. In the 18th century, the town shifted from the hands of nawabs of Farrukhnagar to the Marathas and finally to George Thomas, who built a fort in the area before moving to the nearby town of Hansi.
In the 19th century, Jhajjar was handed over to Nawab Nijamat Ali Khan by the East India Company, which appointed his son, Faiz Muhammed Khan, as caretaker in 1813. Jhajjar flour- ished in art and architecture in this period. His grandson, Nawab Abdur Rahman, who later built Chuchakwas Palace, is known to be one of the great martyrs of 1857.
Who would associate this sleepy laid-back town with Bollywood shoots? But considering its historic significance in the 1857 War of Independence, it became one of the shooting sites for the film, ‘Mangal Pandey’ by Aamir Khan. The movie has some interesting shots, specifically of the tomb sites protected by the ASI.
A group of seven tombs is on the eastern side of town on the Jhajjar-delhi road near Bua ka Talab. The tombs were built during the Mughal period between 1594 and 1630. Each structure is on a raised platform and has to be approached by a flight of steps. Kankar limestone blocks have been used for the construction along with red sandstone for decoration. Mostly planned in symmetrical squares, in rectangular and octagonal shapes, the ceilings of the tombs are domical. Some tombs have a mosque or an idgah attached while others have chattris or cupolas in the courtyards. Almost all tombs bear inscriptions providing valuable information. Another characteristic feature is the presence of medallions in the spandrels of arches. In addition to the tombs, the complex also houses six other structural remains and a huge water tank, all spread in an area of 500m x 300m. According to an inscription on the earliest tomb, Mian Raib, son of Pyara, built it during Ramzan, 1593-94. In the courtyard, there are two gravestones and a cupola supported on eight pillars. The second tomb, as per an inscription, is that of Hasan Shaheed, killed in the reign of Jehangir in 1625 or 1626.
The gateway to the mosque in the third tomb enclosure bears an inscription that identifies it as the tomb of Ismail, son of Raib, who founded the mosque in 1611. This also has an octagonal cupola, just like the first tomb. The fourth tomb is an octagonal building covered with a dome. The interior is adorned with geometrical and floral patterns painted in various colours. In the courtyard, there is an open cupola with octagonal pillars and an idgah at the rear. The mosque of the fifth tomb bears an inscription on the central arch that states that it was constructed during the reign of Shah Jahan in 1629-30 by Kalal Khan. The sixth and the seventh tombs constitute of western walls without mosque or cupola.
Another historic structure, the Bua Hasan Talab, is to the east of town on Jhajjar-delhi road
KALICHARAN SARAF, BJP MLA
near the group of seven tombs. This tank was built in 1625 by Kalal Khan, mace-bearer of Emperor Jehangir. The tank is square with steps from the east, west and south sides and a ramp on the north side. The structure is constructed of bricks and clad with stone at the upper level. Approximate dimensions of the tank are 60m x 70m.
A small channel is located on the northeast corner and is believed to be the source of water for the tank.
One can also visit other historic monuments in Farrukhnagar and the nearby Chuchkawas Palace, en route to Jhajjar on a day’s trip.