Set your mind at cheese

LET IT BRIE

About 5,000 years ago, people in West Asia figured out that when soured and curdled milk was concentrated by pressing and draining out the whey, the granules left over, sprinkled with salt, were delicious. If the curdling occurred inside the lining of a slain animal’s stomach (which contains rennet, a protein-digesting enzyme), they found, the resulting cheese came together much more cohesively.

By the 8th century BCE, this process had reached Europe, where cooler temperatures allowed the Europeans to add another dimension to cheese-making: ageing. Given the rich diversities of climate and starter culture, Europe soon became a thriving hub of new cheese varieties, with the ageing adding new layers of flavours and textures.

Unique cheeses such as the brie, comté, cheshire, cheddar and stilton (all named for their places of origin in France and England) emerged. They all start with the same base ingredients: milk, cheese cultures, rennet, salt and time.

Such cheeses are also a conduit for healthy microorganisms and enzymes. And where there is life, there is a life cycle. So, once such a cheese has ripened, it has to be used within a certain period.

James Kraft, a cheese maker in Chicago, wondered how to extend the shelf life of cheese. In 1916, he patented a process by which he sterilised cheese by stirring it for about 15 minutes while heated to about 80 degrees Celsius. This killed the bacteria in it and allowed it to be canned. This marked the birth of processed cheese.

Kraft soon realised that heating the cheese caused the proteins and fats to separate. The protein seized up into a glob and the fats pooled together in a greasy puddle. The addition of emulsifiers such as sodium citrate (INS 331) and potassium polyphosphate (INS 452 (ii)) pulled together these components and gave the cheese a smooth, rubbery texture. This became the standard for industrially made cheeses. These were crafted into slices that fit perfectly between sandwich bread and could be melted into a gooey state. This variety is now commonly called American or processed cheese.

The traditional cheeses retain their original names: feta, cheddar, gouda, etc. Here, the process and the amount of milk fats and moisture are regulated by food safety and standards organisations. Such cheeses typically have a much smaller ingredients list: milk, bacterial cultures, rennet and salt.

Paneer, the popular Indian cheese, has one of the simplest ingredients lists: Milk and acidifying agent (lemon juice or vinegar). Using vacuum packing and heat treatment, the shelf life of packed paneer can extend to roughly 90 days when refrigerated, with no added preservatives. Because of the use of acids and the lack of rennet, paneer is a non-melting cheese.

Among the melting cheeses, mozzarella is perhaps the most popular, for becoming stretchy and stringy when heated. Another popular cheese, with less stringiness but a much sharper taste, is cheddar. The complex, sharp taste of cheddar comes from the ageing process. Mozzarella, which is a fresh cheese, retains a bland, milk-like taste. Which is why companies often blend the two to get the best of both worlds.

Now, cheese spreads and cheese sauces, which are made by blending processed cheese with water and flavourings, are likely to have additives including emulsifiers and preservatives, necessitated by the high moisture content. Take time to look at these cheese labels. Or try some of the traditional cheese varieties instead. They have cleaner ingredients lists, a rich cultural history and, most importantly, complex and delicious flavours.

(To reach Swetha Sivakumar with questions or

feedback, email upgrademyfood@gmail.com)