BALTIC GLOBETROT
Latvia’s capital, Riga, will entice you with its art nouveau architecture, rousing history and dynamic culture
Riga, capital of Latvia, a Baltic country with Estonia to the north and Lithuania to the south, tends to be the gateway for people flying into the region. Having claimed independence in 1991 from the Soviets, Latvia has stopped simmering and whimpering; it has revitalized itself, and claimed its spot in the sun. It’s capital endears visitors with its grand river and canal views, undulating parks, stunning art nouveau architecture, a charming historic area, great restaurants and a vibrant nightlife.
Nina, my lively and engaging Latvian guide showed me around, but not before making a surprising connection given my Indian name. “Oh, I fell completely in love with India after watching Dilwale and Devdas” she said, “Especially when I saw Madhuri and Aishwarya dancing to dola re dola! I’ve visited India many times, and am heading to a kathak class after our walk”
We ambled along the cobbled streets of Vecriga, the old part of Riga, lingering in the jewel-like Town Hall Square. Quite like the amber, that’s found almost exclusively in the Baltic areas, the city is a petrified gem, with stories of 17th century Hanseatic trade and affluence etched on its walls. We escaped the October rain and sipped Black Balsam, a local tipple in the cozy, retro Black Magic Bar. Outside, bachelor herds from abroad trolled the streets with intent, determined to kick up a rumpus on a stag weekend.
ART NOUVEAU DISTRICT
The next morning, we explored the Art Nouveau District, a completely different neighbourhood belonging to a different era; In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, an economic upturn along with a surge in the population, resulted in the creation of beautiful buildings and homes in Riga. Over a third of Riga’s buildings (about 800 of them) were built in the exuberant art nouveau style, some of them reflecting a genre rich with local symbols called National Romanticism — A Latvian touch can be seen in the geometrical ornamentation and fantastical motifs such as winged lions, peacocks, dragons and sphinxes. Albert iela (street) has a rich collection of buildings designed by the famous architect Mikhail Einstein.
The Museum of Art Nouveau was also a home to painters Janis Rozentals and writer Rudolfs Blaumanis and it has one of the most beautiful staircases in Riga.
Here, it is possible to explore the interiors of a 1903 home with all the furniture art and objects in situ. A generous smattering of top caliber design stores, boutiques, art galleries and restaurants dotted the area.
THE BALTIC STATES
Over a delicious lunch of kale, avocado and buckwheat salad, grilled perch and a curd-cheese dessert at Istaba, a tiny, atmospheric restaurant, we chatted about the perception and reality of the Baltic States. All three countries touch the Baltic Sea, were long ravaged by stronger European powers, share a recent history of being ruled by Russia. They wrested their independence in 1991. (A chain of 2 million people holding hands in peaceful protest extended from Tallinn in the north to Vilnius in the south over 675 km in 1989) They belong to NATO and the EU and have adopted the Euro. They are often perceived as a single entity (guide books and travel companies lump them together) All capitals have charming old towns. Nina described the capitals in a word each: “Tallinn-medieval, Riga- art nouveau, and Vilnius-ecclesiastic” All three nations take pride in their traditional dress, folk songs and native traditions. They’ve a great affinity with nature and tend to escape to their cottages by the sea or in the forest. Yet, while Latvian and Lithuanian languages have some affinity, Estonian is completely different and more like Finnish. Like the Finns they love their sauna. “The people from Estonia tend to be lighter skinned and have a degree of reserve, as someone said, they’ve mastered the art of being impeccably polite without being friendly. The Latvians are more outgoing and warmer, they’ll enjoy chatting with you, and the Lithuanians will go all out and invite you home. Our local joke is, What’s common between Estonia and Lithuania? — Latvia!”