LEAPING LEMURS: CALL OF THE WEIRD
A rainforest walk in Madagascar reveals otherworldly creatures
We’re following a narrow trail in Mantadia National Park in eastern Madagascar, a vast rainforest, hoping to discover a wildlife that can be seen nowhere else, as these creatures — and most of these trees and plants — have been evolving in complete isolation on this island for sixty million years. We’ve driven a bonerattling ninety minutes over a rutted mud road from Andasibe, the launchpad for a series of protected rainforest patches. “First you had a Madagascar massage,” laughs Rakuto, our jaunty Malagasy guide, “and now you’ll get lemur neck from looking straight up into the trees!” We’re inside a web of trunks, branches and leaves, its nooks and crannies colonized by orange toadstools, velvet moss, sculptural ferns and vividly coloured flowers. As we brush past the leafy thickets, we make acquaintance with an array of birds, giant chameleons, helmeted beetles, tiny frogs and a leaf tailed gecko, perfectly camouflaged on a speckled branch. Underfoot, the trail changes from red gravel slush to leaf humus and we’re snagged by tangles of thick roots. Rakuto points at two large furry creatures with striking markings and long black tails up on branches. “They are black and white ruffed lemurs,” he informs us. The duo peers at us with their big amber eyes, without stopping to stuff leaves into their mouths with both hands.
A few steps away, a dozen of brown lemurs are cavorting in the sunny canopy, flinging themselves from branch to branch with the flair of Olympic gymnasts. With my binoculars I make out the exquisite white, black and amber markings on their faces, marveling at nature’s artistry at its best.
THE CALL OF THE INDRI
Lemurs are pre-primates. They evolved in an era before monkeys, such as vervets and baboons. Scientists believe that lemurs were castaways that landed in Madagascar and managed to survive here, whereas back in Africa they were wiped out by tree climbing predators and the smarter, more deceptive primates. Coming to Madagascar’s forest is like stepping into a time capsule.
And, now comes the pièce de résistance — we hear a long piercing sound, and its response from afar. This is the territorial call of indris, the largest and the most iconic lemurs of these forests. Rakuto’s pace quickens, and now we’re in the dense tangle of liana thickets, sharp-edged vakona clumps and strangler figs. Above us, the dominant female lifts her head, opens her mouth and belts out a shrill ‘EEEEeeeEEEEEh’ and her mate completes it with an ‘OOOooooOOOOugh’. While I feel a tingling aural connection to the past, the jarring sound is utterly unbearable for a saffron coloured diademed sifaka, yet another beauty of this rainforest, who makes a speedy getaway. It is easy to see all the creatures mentioned in Andasibe and Mantadia National Parks in Eastern Madagascar.
HOW TO GET THERE?
Fly to Antananarivo, capital of Madagascar via Nairobi, Paris or Istanbul. Drive four hours to Andasibe, then an hour and a half to Mantadia National Park.
Stay at: Vakona Lodge: It has an adjoining Lemur Park where habituated lemurs such as ringtails, brown lemurs and bamboo lemurs will perch on your shoulder for a bite of banana. Mantadia Lodge: It’s a stylish new lodge atop a hill surrounded by beautiful views of tree-covered hills. Gear: Bring a raincoat, walking shoes with treads and a torch for night safaris.