Revival of the ’90s: The ‘scandalous’ low-rise pants are back in style!
Worn by celebs and embraced by brands, the trend is back in vogue — this time with inclusivity and comfort
The resurgence of the low-rise pant, which was controversial when it was introduced in the ’90s, is one of the most sought-after trends to dominate the Spring/Summer 2022 runways. High-end designers like Missoni, Miu Miu, Blumarine, Vaquera, MSGM, Molly Goddard, Bevza and Coperni have embraced this style wholeheartedly. Off the runway, models Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid, Hailey Bieber and Emily Ratajkowski, media personality Kim Kardashian, actors Julia Fox and Zoe Kravitz, and singer Lizzo, have been seen carrying and acing this retro trend.
Wearing low-rise pants with visible underwear or a Gstring has especially gained popularity. But is this trend here to stay? According to designer Dhruv Kapoor, it most certainly is. “I love anything low-rise and baggy. Ideally, I would style a fitted short tee and low-rise baggy pants. Currently, I think this is all I have in my closet. It is definitely here to stay for a while. Our current bestsellers are the low-rise sweatpants, jeans and formal trousers. It’s a vibe!” says Kapoor.
THE GENESIS
Alexander McQueen, the quintessential British designer, was the agent provocateur of the low-rise pants trend. In 1993, through his A/W collection titled Taxi Driver, McQueen introduced the ‘bumster’ jeans — low-slung jeans that expose the butt cleavage. In a 1996 interview with The Guardian, he spoke of his collection as a reflection of sensuality, beauty and passion. Through this collection, he aimed to commemorate the beauty of the human form.
Sartorially speaking, lowslung pants had a cult following back in the nineties and noughties — made popular by the likes of singer Britney Spears and media personality Paris Hilton. The former’s flawless dance moves in low-rise jeans in the music video, I’m A Slave 4 U, and Hilton’s wardrobe consisting of low-slung embellished denims from True Religion and Frankie B, brought the trend under the spotlight. Singers Christina Aguilera, Rihanna and Gwen Stefani, pop group Destiny’s Child and actor Lindsay Lohan were also purveyors of this trend. Remember Gwen Stefani’s famous low-slung pants and tank tops? Iconic.
FASHION FOR ALL
During the early noughts, the trend lacked inclusivity and representation. Bare midriffs, a curvy butt and a flat stomach were considered prerequisites to wear it, limiting the style to thin frames and flat torsos, and perpetuating fat phobia and body shaming. However, with a fashion reboot, this style has become more inclusive, less daunting and more evolved. Instead of a slim fit, the silhouette is far more relaxed in baggy lowrise jeans and trousers.
Speaking about the revival, Designer Pranav Mishra shares that fashion is a cycle and trends keep repeating. “I like the low-rise trend. When I was in college, everyone used to dress up in denims that hung low on the hips,” adding, “I hope we can be more tolerant and accepting of every shape and size.”
But not everyone’s a fan of the trend. Designer Nachiket Barve, who does feel the revival is nostalgic, would rather skip the style himself. “Fashion doesn’t exist in vacuum. The revival of lowrise pants is nostalgic. In 2022, we see a little revival of the ’90s and early 2000s. To the millennials, the ’90s are what the ’70s were to us. Crop tops, tiny bags, low-rise pants etc., are heavily inspired by street style. With international models and designers sporting this trend again, it has become popular all over the world. But personally, I would be happy to skip this trend,” he says.