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GLYCOLIC ACID: MAGIC BULLET OR SOCIAL MEDIA HOKUM?

Now Once considered ineffectiv­e, acids are being hailed as the holy grail for a number of skin and radiant skin woes and the secret to supple, healthy

- Abigail Banerji

Glycolic acid a has keratolyti­c effect. It softens the layer keratin of the skin, thereby increasing its moisture. DR HARDIK DODIA, Cosmetolog­ist

abigail.banerji@hindustant­imes.com lycolic acid has disrupted the beauty industry, and how! From pigmented elbows to cracked heels, this product is much sought-after to treat a range of skin woes. While glycolic acid is not new to the beauty world, its uses were earlier limited to brightenin­g and treating acne.

GWhat is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) and a water-soluble acid derived mainly from sugarcane. Out of all AHAs, its simplistic molecular structure allows it to penetrate the skin better.

Experts call it an extremely effective chemical exfoliant that helps get rid of dead cells on the outer layer of our skin, revealing the new, radiant skin underneath. “It accelerate­s cell turnover,

bringing younger cells to the surface. It also helps get rid of dullness and pigmentati­on,” says Rahul Yadav, co-founder of a skincare brand.

“Glycolic acid increases collagen production and helps reduce wrinkles and fine lines,” adds Dr Hardik Dodia, a cosmetolog­ist.

How long does it take for results to show?

Dr Chytra V Anand, a cosmetic dermatolog­ist, says it takes two weeks to notice skin smoothing benefits and four to six weeks to see a difference in pigmentati­on.

“If you use a glycolic acid mask, which is created for deeper penetratio­n, the results will be immediate. But, if you use serums, cleansers or moisturise­rs that contain glycolic acid regularly, you could see results in a month,” adds Dr Dodia.

The skin will have fewer blemishes since the acid keeps the pores clean, and in two months, the skin starts to look more even toned. Between one to six months, the exfoliatio­n will reveal radiant skin with increased collagen production and decreased wrinkles.

Side effects

Like any other potent treatment, a few precaution­s need to be taken while using glycolic acid. “Avoid using it after any skin treatment, like facial, waxing, etc. till your skin recovers, which is around 45 to 72 hours. Using any strong actives after such treatments will do more harm than good. Using a broad spectrum SPF 30 or above is strongly suggested if you are using glycolic acid-based products. Chemical exfoliatio­n reveals fresh skin cells, so it’s important to protect those new cells from harmful UV rays,” cautions Yadav.

Overusing this AHA on the thin surface of the skin can lead to dryness and irritation. Hence, it’s best to use products that contain 10% glycolic acid. Any product containing higher concentrat­ion than this should be used only after seeking expert guidance.

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PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTO­CK (FOR REPRESENTA­TIONAL PURPOSE ONLY)

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