A BROTHERHOOD OF THE BIRYANIS
With Eid al-Fitr around the corner, we attempt to unravel the layers of this many-splendoured dish that reflects the diversity of our country
Abig part of celebrating Eid is tucking into biryani, layered with scented basmati rice, marinated and masalaensconced meat, whole spices, fresh herbs and caramelised onions. Interestingly, the multifarious regional styles and flavours invite as many debates as it does takers. Ahead of the festival, chefs weigh in on what makes each biryani so distinct...
The highlights of the Kolkata biryani are the rice and the potato, which have to take in the flavours of the former. KALYAN KARMAKAR, Author and food blogger
Both variants are made without dum. A longer, sturdier basmati, called sella rice, is used. Instead of saffron, orange and white colours are used, not to mention mirchiyaan for teekhapan! The achari biryani uses mirchi ka achaar. At a few places, there is a culture of eating biryani with a runny haleem, which works as a gravy or raita.
— Sadaf Hussain, author, podcaster and MasterChef India 2016 finalist
LUCKNOW’S AWADHI BIRYANI
What sets it apart is the balance between rich, fragrant spices and tender meat and vegetables. It incorporates a subtle sweetness alongside the heat from spices, creating a complex yet harmonious taste
profile. The flavours are a medley of spices such as cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and saffron. It features basmati rice, meat (lamb or chicken), yoghurt and milk, and might include ingredients such as nutmeg, mace, green cardamom and rose water. Awadhi biryani is served with Boorani raita and sliced onion.
— Rehman Mujeebur, consultant chef
KOKANI BIRYANI
The masala, dum technique, and cutting and serving of it make this biryani different. It is more masaledar (homemade hara masala, dry spice powders and garam masala), has fried potatoes, and is not dry, so there is no need for extra gravy or salan. Kokani biryanis have one or two thars (layers), so an ‘ek thar’ will have masala layered with rice and ‘do thar’ will have masala-rice-masala-rice.
It is not mixed when served. The dish is made with a double dum technique, where a thick beed tawa is placed on the flame on which the degh is kept. Burnt coconut shells are placed on the lid to ensure even cooking and a beautiful browning on the top.
— Shabana Salauddin, home chef and owner, Ammeez Kitchen
HYDERABADI BIRYANI
The Hyderabadi dum biryani involves a unique method of cooking the raw marinated mutton and basmati rice with spice powders and pastes, in addition to raw papaya, lemon juice, yoghurt, fried onions, rose petals, coriander and mint leaves, milk, saffron, pure ghee and oil. The meat is cooked on ‘dum’ and the biryani does not have any other vegetables.
— Amtul Faheem, Hyderabad-based home chef and blogger at @ammi.ke.khane
THALASSERY FISH BIRYANI
Kaima rice, black pepper from Tellicherry and spices from the region, come together for the unique Malabar fish biryani. The Arabs are said to have brought this style to the coast. The women used fish (kingfish/ surmai; called ayakura in Malayalam, or the Malabar grouper), instead of meat, and local spices, to make it — and that is how the tradition has continued. It is served with raita, spicy coconut chutney and papad. — Sandeep Sreedharan, restaurateur and founder, Chefsgate
KOLKATA’S EGG AND POTATO BIRYANI
The highlights here are the rice and the potato, which take in the flavours of the former. The special biryani has an egg in it, which you break open to mix the yolk with the rice. Mutton works best for this dish, and it is ideally had without accompaniments.
— Kalyan Karmakar, author and food blogger at @finelychopped
NAGPUR BIRYANI
This dish has a layered version with 70% cooked rice and akhni (mutton yakhni) and slow-cook it. Nagpuri biryani is pakki akhni (pre-cooked meat) biryani with around 8-10 whole spices added to the marination, along with green chillies. The Nagpur biryani is enjoyed with a spiced mint raita called Burhani.