TRACING THE ALLURE OF AJRAKH
The textile art of Ajrakh bears fruit for the artisans of Kutch in Gujarat, as the recently bestowed Geographical Indication (GI) tag gets them due recognition. Here, we travel back in time to understand the remarkable art that is loved by celebs and renowned names in fashion. The origin story
Ajrakh’s history goes back to 400 years ago in Pakistan’s Sindh and continues to be practiced in parts of Gujarat and Rajasthan in India. Master craftsman Dr Ismail Mohamed Khatri is credited with its revival, while his son and tenth generation Ajrakh craftsman Sufiyan Ismail Khatri carries forward his legacy. Decoding the art
The identity of Ajrakh resides in its intricate patterns and double-sided print. Designers such as Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Ritu Kumar and Anita Dongre are reviving this age-old craft with their interpretations. “What’s special about the print is that it features an intricate level of geometry where shapes and colours are achieved by handpressing wooden blocks into the fabric. The blocks are handmade by craftsmen while the dyes are obtained from Nature. It is inspired by the Islamic concept of ‘mizan’ meaning ‘balance and order,” shares Abu Jani.
Designer Nachiket Barve adds, “The Mughals played a key role in promoting Ajrakh. Now, it’s seeing a revival and it is amazing to witness designers promote this age-old print.”
With indigo and crimson red as the primary colours are derived from herbs, vegetable essence and natural minerals, white symmetrical motifs exhibit elements of Nature. A recurring motif is the Trefoil, comprising three sun discs, representing the relationship between the sun Gods, water and the Earth. The designs are influenced by local legends and historic events. Stages of Ajrakh printing
Resist printing is the method employed to keep intended areas from absorbing darker hues. The craft includes processes of saaj, kasano, khariyanu, kat, gach, indigo dyeing, vichcharnu, and rang.