India Today

Spice Kingsand Masala Quens

Indian cuisine takes North American TV by storm. Will it become a mass market hit?

- By Indira Kannan

Indian cuisine is yet to hit the sweet spot in the fiercely competitiv­e food markets in the United States and Canada, but Indians seem to have found greater success in talking about food to television audiences in both countries. The visibility of Indian faces on popular food shows has been growing in recent months.

Padma Lakshmi, 41, the Chennaibor­n model and cookbook author, has been a host of Top Chef USA on the cable channel Bravo for eight seasons. The reality programme featuring contests among chefs is the top ranked food show in the US, pulling in around two million viewers for every episode. Earlier this year, the partly Indian, Canadian model and actor Lisa Ray, 40, joined the programme’s Canadian franchise, Top Chef Canada. There’s no doubt both hosts are expected to push up the glamour quotient, but they are also foodies in their own right. Padma Lakshmi is the author of two cookbooks; Toronto- based Lisa proudly recalls how she learnt to make parathas and makki di roti in a village near Chandigarh while preparing for her role in Deepa Mehta’s film Water.

While Top Chef caters to more mainstream tastes, the hosts get plenty of opportunit­y to talk about their own culinary interests. “I aim to use the platform that Top Chef Canada has given me to talk about my passion for Indian cuisine,” says Lisa, adding her favourite memories revolve around food, be it prawn dishes from Kochi, or parathas and kali dal at dhabas on the drive from Delhi to Dharamshal­a.

Now, there are also now shows dedicated to Indian cuisine on US and Canadian television. Two years ago, 33year- old Mumbai native and Los Angeles resident Aarti Sequeira won Season 6 of The Next Food Network Star, earning her own show. She now hosts Aarti Party, where she teaches viewers how to put an Indian spin on popular American dishes. Her pretzelfri­ed steak with mango- onion gravy, for instance, calls for mango chutney, ground coriander, cumin and kasoori methi, all of which, she informs her viewers, can be found at Indian stores.

Another Indian face is the Vancouver- based Bal Arneson, who fronts Spice Goddess on the Food Network’s Cooking Channel. The show, which explains the use of Indian spices and herbs, is currently in its second season. Arneson, who grew up in a village near Phagwara in Punjab and is in her late 30s, also has two cookbooks out and is working on her third. She urges viewers to experiment with masalas in Italian meatballs and even in the good old macaroni and cheese, and cooked up a cardamom- flavoured crème brulèe. “When I talk of my stories from growing up in India, I try to incorporat­e those stories within the food and people really like that,” says Arneson, who sometimes lapses into her native Punjabi or Hindi during her shows, inviting audiences to “aa jao, aa jao, khaa lo”.

Viewers in North America also get a taste of Indian cuisine with a growing number of chefs making their appearance as contestant­s on various reality shows. Mumbai- born chef Floyd Cardoz famously won the Top Chef Masters contest in 2011 with his version of the

humble upma. Maneet Chauhan, executive chef of the New York and Chicago eatery Vermilion, and famous pastry chef and restaurant owner Jehangir Mehta have competed on Iron Chef.

All this on- screen visibility, however, probably overstates the popularity of Indian food in this part of the world. Except for isolated success stories, the cuisine is yet to break into the big leagues in either the mass market or luxury segments. There are highly rated chefs at Michelin- starred restaurant­s, such as Hemant Mathur at Tulsi, Vikas Khanna at Junoon and Avtar Walia at Tamarind Tribeca, all in New York. But as Mathur explains, it’s im- portant to think small when it comes to Indian food— Tulsi has just 70 covers. Cardoz would agree. Tabla, the most famous Indian restaurant in the US since it opened in 1998, closed shop in December 2010, with its owner, New York restaurate­ur Danny Meyer, conceding it was difficult to fill 263 seats each night. Cardoz, 50, who introduced and popularise­d modern Indian cuisine to Americans at Tabla, is now the executive chef at the North End Grill in New York.

Indian food hasn’t found much favour in the mass market either, compared to other ethnic cuisines like Chinese, Mexican, Thai or Middle Eastern, all of which can be found at food courts in malls or airports across the US. Krishnendu Ray, assistant professor of nutrition and food studies at New York University, puts this down to simple demographi­cs. “Naan is not going to become the next pizza, not in our lifetime,” declares Ray, adding it would take 10 million Indians to come to the US and spend a hundred years here before achieving a critical mass that can support mass expansion of Indian food. Ray studies New York’s Indian restaurant­s from a sociologic­al perspectiv­e and is the co- author of Curried Cultures— Food Globalizat­ion in South Asia. He points out, however, that Indian food has entered the vocabulary of cutting- edge American cuisine, partly due to the efforts of leading Indian chefs in the US, as well as its visibility on television shows.

For now, fans of Indian cuisine are hoping success on the small screen will give it more sizzle in American kitchens and on restaurant menus.

 ?? NORTH END GRILL ?? FLOYD CARDOZ
Won Top Chef Masters in 2011 with his version of the Indian upma. Born in Mumbai, lives in New York. Former executive chef at New York’s Tabla, now at North End Grill.
NORTH END GRILL FLOYD CARDOZ Won Top Chef Masters in 2011 with his version of the Indian upma. Born in Mumbai, lives in New York. Former executive chef at New York’s Tabla, now at North End Grill.
 ?? TOP CHEF CANADA
AP PHOTO ?? LISA RAY Host of Top Chef Canada since March. Born in Toronto to Indian father, Polish mother; lives in Toronto.
Actor, former model, cancer survivor.
BAL ARNESON
Host of Spice Goddess since 2010; she’s a “spice sherpa” who explains use of spices...
TOP CHEF CANADA AP PHOTO LISA RAY Host of Top Chef Canada since March. Born in Toronto to Indian father, Polish mother; lives in Toronto. Actor, former model, cancer survivor. BAL ARNESON Host of Spice Goddess since 2010; she’s a “spice sherpa” who explains use of spices...

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