A BRIEF HIS­TORY OF FOOD

KESAR DHABA, AM­RIT­SAR 230 KM FROM CHANDI­GARH

India Today - - COVER STORY -

Ser­pen­tine streets with elec­tric wires hang­ing low lead you to a glo­ri­ous dhaba that can be see em­braced by cen­turies old build­ings. What is spe­cial about the famed Kesar dhaba is its abil­ity to trans­port one back in time.

Go­ing Back This dhaba’s legacy goes back to 1916 when it was es­tab­lished in Sheikhupur­a, Pak­istan. The pre­ferred eat­ing spot of free­dom fighter Lala La­j­pat Rai and his as­so­ciates, who pa­tro­n­ised it for its famed dal and paran­thas, the eatery shifted to Am­rit­sar post-Par­ti­tion in 1947. Third gen­er­a­tion owner Vi­jay Sharma has en­sured that all recipes and cook­ing meth­ods re­main as they were in 1916. “It would be an in­sult to our an­ces­tors if we changed them,” says the 60-year-old.

Don’t Miss The dal at Kesar is cooked on a slow burner in a brass pot for 24 hours be­fore be­ing served to cus­tomers. Urad

dal, chana and lachcha paran­tha are all-time favourites here. Meal for two `400 (ap­prox­i­mately) At Chowk Pas­sian, Am­rit­sar Tel 9888124219

Vi­jay Sharma, owner, Kesar Dhaba

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