Set­ting the bar high

Co­morin has a hint of In­dian Ac­cent but is a far more trendy out­post by Old World Hospi­tal­ity


When a culi­nary su­per­star who gave the world a new win­dow to In­dian cui­sine de­cides to ex­pand his view, the re­sult is a bril­liant new space called Co­morin. Old World Hospi­tal­ity is best known for In­dian Ac­cent and for giv­ing Chef Man­ish Mehro­tra to the world. Now, it has cre­ated a new brand con­cep­tu­alised by Rishiv Khat­tar, Di­rec­tor, EHV. The space looks and feels in­ter­na­tional, both in de­sign and con­cept, and it is lo­cated at Two Hori­zon Cen­tre (a swish of­fice dis­trict) in Gu­ru­gram. The restau­rant looks like a mod café, ca­sual, yet in­ti­mate, with sec­tions for a very chic (and long) cock­tail bar, a cof­fee bar and a mar­ket sec­tion that sells ev­ery­thing from tea and cof­fee to cured meats, mar­i­nated fish, bar­ware and fer­mented drinks.

The menu, which has been de­signed by Chef Man­ish, is be­ing ex­e­cuted by the head chef Dhi­raj Dar­gan. The small, large and ex­tra large plates are all In­dian-ori­gin but steer far from what passes as reg­u­lar. Dishes like the Andhra gongura chicken, haleem with but­ter toast, cock­tail idlis with a twist of lime and mut­ton and egg bhurji served with hum­mus and naan are tasty and fa­mil­iar with­out be­ing over­whelm­ing. Big on flavour and ideal for com­ple­ment­ing the eclec­tic bar menu, they have a dis­tinct Mehro­tra stamp but are shorn of the In­dian Ac­cent stiff up­per lip.

What makes Co­morin a fan­tas­tic wa­ter­ing hole are its craft cock­tails, many of which use sous vide in­fu­sions to el­e­vate the mun­dane. The nitro brew and botan­i­cal­in­fused drinks are rem­i­nis­cent of spe­cialty bars found in down­town Man­hat­tan and Shored­itch, Lon­don. The pick­led pom whisky which has pick­ling spices in­fus­ing the bour­bon is an ideal win­ter drink. Visit Co­morin as much for the drinks as the nib­bles as it gives you a taste of an In­dia palate that’s re­turned home after a long stint over­seas. Meal for two `1500 plus taxes (with­out al­co­hol); Reser­va­tions-0124-4984224

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