What lies BE­NEATH

When the past marches in step with the fu­ture, his­tory is cre­ated. The new tour­bil­lon from Breguet is a case in point.

India Today - - WATCH OF THE MOMENT -

The Tour­bil­lon is syn­ony­mous with Breguet, sim­ply be­cause Abra­ham-Louis Breguet in­vented and patented it over 220 years ago. The master watch­maker cre­ated a watch that negated the ef­fects of gravity on the func­tion­ing of the os­cil­la­tor which im­proved the chrono­met­ric ac­cu­racy of the move­ment. He in­cor­po­rated the bal­ance wheel, spring and es­cape­ment into a ro­tat­ing cage, and the dou­ble ro­ta­tion of this cage and parts was called Tour­bil­lon. A reg­u­lar fea­ture in most col­lec­tions, weigh­ing just about one gram, it stands tes­ta­ment to ex­cel­lence in watch­mak­ing.

In 2014, Breguet in­tro­duced a watch that was an amal­ga­ma­tion of the brand’s clas­sic de­sign sen­si­bil­i­ties and in­no­va­tive spirit: The Clas­sique Tour­bil­lon Ex­tra-Thin Au­to­matic 5377. The in­tro­duc­tory edi­tion with a guil­loché dial and a power re­serve in­di­ca­tor was fol­lowed up in 2018 by an ul­tra-clas­sic ver­sion with a white enamel dial and sleek de­sign (ref. 5367).

This year, the stun­ning Breguet Clas­sique Tour­bil­lon Ex­tra-Plat Squelette 5395 was in­tro­duced at the first ‘Time to Move’ event. This timepiece is the per­fect blend of ex­em­plary watch­mak­ing, tech­nol­ogy and struc­tural beauty.

The Breguet Clas­sique Tour­bil­lon Ex­tra-Plat Squelette 5395 is an open-worked model that is bold, mod­ern and at­trac­tive. It re­tains all the tech­ni­cal el­e­ments of the pre­vi­ous ver­sions and comes with a 41mm di­am­e­ter and a pro­file of 7.7mm, with a del­i­cately fluted case­band and sol­dered lugs with screws. At 3mm, the ex­tra thin 581 cal­i­bre is one of the finest self-wind­ing tour­bil­lon move­ments; a feat of great tech­ni­cal crafts­man­ship.

The watch, a mod­ern tech­ni­cal won­der, is wound by a pe­riph­eral ro­tor and the sin­gle bar­rel, mounted on ball-bear­ing rollers, of­fer­ing an ex­cep­tional 80hour power re­serve. The tour­bil­lon housed in a ti­ta­nium cage, with anti-mag­netic parts, a lever es­cape­ment with sil­i­con horns and a flat sil­i­con bal­ance spring beats at a high fre­quency of 4Hz, which lit­er­ally spells ex­cep­tional chronom­e­try.

All this mas­tery sits in a fluted case with a domed glass box, where time is dis­played on a slightly opaque sap­phire ring with printed Ro­man nu­mer­als. This ring is off­set by tra­di­tional hands that are open­tipped in blued steel. The watch dial fea­tures ap­plied in­dexes in blued gold.

The watch has been crafted with a lot of room on the left which has been achieved by hol­lowed out gold plate and bridges, which help flaunt the true beauty and com­plex­ity of its mov­ing parts. This al­lows an undis­turbed view of some of the tech­ni­cal el­e­ments that are usu­ally hid­den, such as the com­po­nents of the pe­riph­eral wind­ing mech­a­nism like the ball bear­ings.

Viewed from the dial side, the tour­bil­lion cage and bal­ance are lo­cated be­tween 4:00 and 6:00, with the main­spring bar­rel be­tween 12:00 and 2:00 and the gears vis­i­ble be­tween 9:00 and 12:00, while the au­to­matic wind­ing train be­comes ap­par­ent when viewed from the back.

This mas­ter­piece is a fine ex­am­ple of ex­tra­or­di­nary hand dec­o­ra­tion; the tech­nique of Clous de Paris was cre­ated on the re­main­ing plates to make it re­sem­ble a work of art. The ra­zor-sharp edges have been painstak­ingly bev­elled by hand, us­ing a file to achieve a satiny fin­ish with even a 45-de­gree tran­si­tional edge. Note­wor­thy etch­ing work and hand pol­ish­ing has been used for dif­fer­ent in­scrip­tions and bor­ders to frame the holes.

The Breguet Clas­sique Tour­bil­lon Ex­tra-Plat Squelette 5395 comes in a rose gold case with a gray move­ment de­sign or a plat­inum case with a rose move­ment and is worn on an al­li­ga­tor strap with a fold­ing buckle match­ing the case.

SKIN IS IN The Breguet Clas­sique Tour­bil­lon Ex­tra-Plat Squelette 5395 is brag­wor­thy for all the right rea­sons

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