TIMELESS CHARM
Royalty comes in many shapes and forms in Istanbul. At the Çırağan Palace Kempinski, two worlds come together in a seamless blend to create an experience that defines Turkish luxury.
The past meets the present at the Cirağan Palace Kempinski, Istanbul
IT IS EASY TO TASTE
the huzun—or shared melancholia for something lost —that one of Turkey’s best loved writers Orhan Pamuk made his own and wrote about extensively. You sense it as you make your way around Istanbul, the murmur and shadow of Constantinople still weaving its way in and out of the grand old-new city. The Bosphorus is a leitmotif for all things past and present, its glittering waters have witnessed the changing of an empire, and its waterways are still used to bridge the identity between Asia and Europe. It is on the banks of this iconic river that the Çırağan Palace Kempinski hotel lies. Part of it basks in the damask colours and ittar scents of a rich, historic past, its architecture aligned to how the sultans once lived; the other part is staccato, modern, almost apartment-like in its exterior but with sudden streams of Ottoman consciousness. Originally built for the sultan in the late nineteeth century, a fire destroyed most of it in 1910 and the palace remained vacant till the early 90s when it was redeveloped by the Kempinski Hotel group. Today, it is
part of the Leading Hotels of the World, a group of over 375 luxury hotels across the world. Clearly divided in the modern part and the heritage wing, you can arrive here by car, yacht or chopper. Here are five standout experiences at the hotel.
LAVISH BEGINNINGS
Laledan is your go-to spot for breakfast at the hotel. While most hotels now have a lavish breakfast buffet, what works in Laledan’s favour is the fact that the buffet is not only lavish but extremely thoughtful, catering to almost every kind of traveller and nationality. With over 200 dishes on offer, you have a range of staples such as traditional Turkish cheeses and a range of cold cuts, every kind of olive, dried fruits, nuts, jams, honey, breads and pastries. There is an entire counter for those who are gluten intolerant, another small one for those who can’t stomach lactose and one for diabetics who are typically sidelined in elaborate buffets. You can easily spend up to two hours enjoying the breakfast spread here and the delicious cold pressed
fresh juices (grapefruit, mixed, ginger and cucumber etc). This is clearly one of your standout experiences at the hotel.
Tip If you are staying for more than one night, attack the breakfast buffet section by section so that you have had a full run by the second or third day
BUBBLY ON THE BOSPHORUS
Since the Bosphorus is central to the city and the hotel, no trip here is complete without a stroll on its banks and a sundowner on one of the dazzling boats as your gently bob down the river. The hotel organises sunset cruises on board the 23-metre, Den 7 boat which is ultra luxuriius and can accommodate upto 35 people. Hop on, grab a glass (or bottle) of bubbly and make your way to the top deck from where you can view the sun going down on Istanbul. While many hotels organise boat cruises what sets this one apart is the boat itself, the attention to detail and the strategic location of the hotel, which allows you to just step off the property, onto the boat, and off it to one of the swish riverside restaurants for after drinks drinks, if that’s your style! Tip Ask for a reservation at the swish Ruby restaurant which turns into a nightclub post dinner. Your cruise deposits you to the restaurant deck direct; this is truly about arriving in style.
SLEEP LIKE A SULTAN
The heritage wing of the hotel is a study in contrasts as it combines the gentility of a time gone by with elements of pomp and grandeur. The Sultan Suite located here is a dream sequence and stretches across 485 sq m, making it one of the largest in Europe (and also among the most expensive in the world at €32,400 per night). The period furniture harks back to a time when life was simpler but tastes were more expensive. Mirrors, chandeliers and windows to the Bosphorus—a 21-seater dining area and an authentic marble hammam that’s just yours, this is what suite dreams are made of. Italian composer Luciano Pavarotti is said to have been its first inhabitant in 1992 once the hotel was restored and celebrities like Madonna, Oprah Winfrey, Bono and others have also stayed here.
Tip Don’t forget to soak in the tub which offers fabulous views of the river
ROYAL DINING
Image dining in a private dining room
in the heritage wing that overlooks the Bosphorus, feasting on a carefully curated menu that highlights top ingredients once favoured by the sultans. What makes this Sultan’s dinner experience magical is the fact that it is held in a classic Ottoman suite with a fantastic view of the Bosphorus where you can enjoy champagne or sherbet, a popular beverage during the Ottoman Empire. Antique candelabras, jardinière, 19th-century carafes and an imperial silver coffee set with the monogram of one of the Sultans of Ottoman Empire all add to the charm. The meal is a delight not least because of the drama of synchronised serving as every cloche is lifted simultaneously. This dining experience is priced at 300€ plus taxes per person with minimum 10 pax reservation.
Tip Even though the breads are delicious, skip bingeing as you should save your appetite for the lavish menu that follows
HAMMAM TIME
The Turkish bath is a symbol of decadence and dates back to a time when community bathing was common in this part of the world. Cut to the Sanitas Spa at the Ciragan Palace and prepare to witness the same ritual being reenacted. The hammam treatment which is approximately an hour long is possibly the most luxurious, sensuous and intimate bathing ritual you are likely to experience. Slip into the hammam in a robe without (almost) a stitch on underneath and allow the ritual to take over. You are placed on a hot marble slab and the attendant uses a mitt to exfoliate your skin. This is followed by a ritual where you are enveloped in frothy soaf bubbles and rubbed down before having mugs of warm water cleanse you. Intimate, invigorating, luxurious and good for your soul!
Tip Try not to be self conscious; the hammam experience is best enjoyed when you submit yourself to it completely.