The KASHMIRI Welcome
WHERE TO STAY WHEN YOU ARE IN JAMMU & KASHMIR
SRINAGAR Nadis
Close to the Mughal gardens, the green Harwan village is a gateway to the Dachigam National Park. Here you’ll find Nadis, a contemporary, chic boutique stay. A refreshing change from usual suspects, Nadis is brightly lit, has large rooms and common spaces that feature art inspired by Kashmir’s alpine landscapes. The food is typically Kashmiri, marked by an abundance of cinnamon, saffron, dried nuts and fruit. The place overlooks a huge private garden where you can sometimes feel a gentle breeze in the afternoons and smell a whiff of the paradise that is Kashmir. (nadis-hotel.com; INR 8,100 with breakfast and taxes)
Karan Mahal
Once home to Dr Karan Singh, former governor and son of Maharaja Hari Singh, this erstwhile Raj Bhawan has hosted several prominent figures throughout its history. Having undergone an extensive decade-long renovation, Karan Mahal opened its doors to tourists in 2021. Showcasing both vintage European influence and Kashmiri heritage, the building also overlooks a large, private orchard that
is full of walking trails, all of which afford stellar views. The kitchen here serves carefully preserved royal family recipes, while the imperial dining room, the wooden ceilings, crystal chandeliers and artefacts together all speak of a bygone era when kings had both taste and power. (karanmahalsrinagar.com;
INR 28,000 plus taxes with breakfast and dinner)
Dar-es-Salaam
Situated by the Nageen Lake, Dar-esSalaam (Haven of Peace) does much to live up to its name. Barely seven kilometres from the city centre, the personalised service at this charming hotel captures the essence of congenial hospitality. Walking down the property’s gardens has its own rewards, but you could also take a shikara ride into the sunset, or maybe just watch the hues of the dipping sun from the comfort of the lounge. Though the dining offers many options, including Kashmiri, nothing beats an evening barbecue grill by the lake. (hoteldaressalaam.com; INR 8,750 plus taxes with breakfast)
Kani Home
Kani Home is a well-crafted, carefully curated, multi-disciplinary hub that welcomes artists, art enthusiasts and people with a spirit of creativity. This one-of-its-kind studio hosts wellness and craft retreats, and is exclusively open to people who enrol in these programmes. The rooms here are purely ancillary, providing a standard level of comfort. The property is a great option for travellers who want to combine soaking in Kashmir with an experiencedriven stay. (kanihome.kashmir@gmail.com; prices vary with programme)
DAL LAKE Sukoon Houseboat
Floating amidst a lotus and hyacinth bed, the Sukoon houseboat, true to its name, sits calm and steady on the gentle waters of Srinagar’s Dal lake. A typical, ornate Kashmiri houseboat that is fitted with modern comfort, customary cuisine and contemporary hospitality, Sukoon is an amalgam of different worlds that meet on these placid waters. Head out on a shikara and explore this water world, with boatswains swishing by, selling their wares, honeymooning couples on their dreamy boat rides and the gentle dipping of oars of resident commuters and travellers being ferried. Return to your houseboat for some ‘sukoon’, and get lulled to sleep in your gently rocking stay; there is nothing like waking up to the Pir Panjal with a cup of warm kahwa on the rippling waters of Kashmir. (abchapriretreats.in/sukoon-houseboat; INR 16,220 with breakfast and taxes)
PAHALGAM The Pahalgam Hotel
One of the earliest hotels in Pahalgam (95 km from Srinagar), the old-world charm of this property is unmistakable. Established in 1931, the hotel remains a Bollywood shoot favourite, and is loved by loyal, old-time travellers, too. Not just does it now have a new wing with contemporary rooms, its older rooms have also been refurbished. The views of the Lidder river, multi-cuisine comfort food and a familiar cosiness, all make for a winning combination. (pahalgamhotel.com; INR 15,000 with lunch and dinner, plus taxes.)
Alpine Inn
An endearing cottage by the Lidder river, which originates in the Kolahoi glacier, the Alpine Inn gets almost everything right—scenic beauty, comfort, quiet and wholesome food. While carpeted walls and wood panelling add to its aesthetic, one’s stay at the property is made even warmer with the electric blankets and hot water bags it provides in each room. Located just outside the main town, the riverside stay makes possible walks in neighbouring forests and also trips to the Aru Valley and Turin Lake nearby. (alpineinnpahalgam.com; INR 4,500 with breakfast)
PATNITOP The Poonch House
A beautifully restored heritage bungalow, the Poonch House will take you approximately three hours to reach from Jammu. Barely three kilometres from the main town, this quaint bedand-breakfast was built in 1936 by the king of Poonch who wanted to give his queen from Kota a rejuvenating place to stay. Built in stone and wood, the family home has two rooms and a separate cottage for long-term stay. If temples and viewpoints are not up your street, hit some easy nature trails marked around the property, or go for a picnic in the forest nearby. On cold evenings, Poonch House’s fireplaces and history together afford warmth and comfort. (https://bit.ly/3wYzZby; INR 5,500 with breakfast and taxes)
GULMARG The Khyber
Easily Kashmir’s (and India’s) best high-end skiing resort, the Khyber is the ultimate mountain luxury dream. From wellness treatments at its international spa to a heated swimming pool, the resort, at 8,000-plus feet, is pure indulgence. It also has private cottages—perfect for couples or small families—and four eating outlets. Only 65 km away from the Srinagar airport, this awardwinning accommodation even offers enchanting views of the Affarwat peaks, and is an easy walk from the Gulmarg Gondola, the world’s highest ski lift. (khyberhotels.com ; INR 44,000 with breakfast and taxes)
Highlands Park
This heritage property came up in the 1960s, when Gulmarg had first become an attraction for the travelling Indian. Close to the Gulmarg golf course, the Highlands Park has long been popular with repeat guests who enjoy the boutique nature of its rooms and suites. Atmospheric décor that exudes warmth and class, sweeping views of the Greater Himalayas and some great service all make this family-run hotel a classic. (highlandspark.in; INR 17,000 with breakfast plus taxes)
SONMARG Farah’s Homestay
Arriving at Farah’s homestay is like walking into a picture postcard. With its idyllic setting—near Sonmarg and on the banks of the Sindh River—this clean and cosy, wallet-friendly, four-room home with open spaces and alpine views demands that you put your feet up for a while. Stop here to unwind, sample homemade Kashmiri food, go fishing, and finally, when you feel up to it, explore Sonmarg (51 km from Srinagar railway station). (farahshomestay.com; INR 5,000 with breakfast, dinner and taxes)
GUREZ Kaka Palace
Gurez, 123 km from Srinagar, draws only the rarest of travellers. But when it does, it is Kaka Palace that offers a clean and safe environment to everyone, from hikers and birders to wildlife researchers and culture enthusiasts. The guesthouse is surrounded by dramatic views, offers Indian food (Kashmiri food on request), and the affable staff help you plan your time and trips in the area. (kakapalace.business.site; INR 3,500 with breakfast and taxes)