IN EARLY MAY, LUXURY FASHION BRAND BALENCIAGA,
popular for its unconventional approach, launched a limited-edition collection of overtly distressed sneakers called ‘Paris Sneaker’—entirely worn out and destroyed with ripped cotton and rubber—in a variety of versions, fetching up to US$ 1,850. Although mercilessly trolled on social media, it was a runaway hit. This may sound like a post-modern rendition of the Theatre of the Absurd.
But fashion is so rarely about restraint or rational constructs.
Interestingly, here is where this issue of Spice builds on the growing argument in favour of “Intelligent luxury”. Embracing an ideal that harmonises indulgence, sustainability and the environment, fashion designer Vaishali Shadangule’s unlikely journey from small-town Vidisha is transforming the worldview of India’s textile heritage. “I come from a very small town in India where sustainability has always been a way of life,” says Shadangule, who became the first female Indian designer to be invited to show her work at the Paris Haute Couture Week last year, and only the second Indian after Rahul Mishra.
Her inspiring fabric and design interventions have created a fresh approach to fashion, with textiles and artisans front and centre. To nullify wastage, contemporary garments are constructed using traditional draping styles with detachable pieces that can be dissembled and transformed as per whim. Apart from refurbishing and upcycling old garments for customers, they use knotting and cording techniques that transform swathes of malleable cloth into couture for a global audience, with no residual wastage.
With the management of waste becoming a growing concern, Sonu Shivdasani’s Soneva Resorts (Maldives and Thailand) are pioneers in luxury and environmental responsibility. Soneva operates a separate Waste-to-Wealth facility and salvages 90 per cent of its discard through a ground-breaking waste-management approach. “It is about combining the traditional opposites of sustainability and wellness with luxury. It is about the sand between the toes and dinner under the canopy of a billion stars, about reconnecting with oneself and the natural environment”, says Shivdasani.
All references to purveyors of luxury with a conscience would be incomplete without the timeless appeal of Rolex. Equal parts aspirational and inspirational—what is it that makes Rolex one of the most sustainable luxury watch brands in the world? Through the Perpetual Planet Initiative alone, Rolex has partnered with 20 organisations, including the National Geographic Society, to study climate change, while Sylvia Earle’s Mission Blue is committed to protecting the oceans.
Given the torment quotient of June in India, Mission Blue seems particularly appropriate as a cause célèbre. But India had many reasons to celebrate as this month witnessed the launch of quite a few EVs spread across price brackets. From the brilliant BMW i4 to Kia’s futuristic EV6 to the Tata Nexon, the choices for electric were extremely eclectic.
Spice was equally electrified by the charge of the Indian lighting designers. Not too long ago, connoisseurs of good design had to train their eyes and choices overseas, but today, there is a plethora of Indian options that rank high in glamour and drama.
Here’s to the bright sparks of a new world. “The best way to predict the future is to create it”.