Mode

Adorn­ing the per­fect shirt not only sets you for the day, it also adds an ele­ment of self con­fi­dence and up­lifts your style quo­tient in­cred­i­bly

MillionaireAsia India - - Contents - By Sharmi Ad­hikary

– Adorn­ing the per­fect shirt not only sets you for the day, it also adds an ele­ment of self con­fi­dence and up­lifts your style quo­tient in­cred­i­bly

In prob­a­bly one of the most in­ter­est­ing scenes from P J Ho­gan’s Con­fes­sions of a Shopa­holic, Luke Bran­don’s mod­est edi­tor Hugh Dancy sur­prises Isla Fisher’s Re­becca Bloom­wood with his style trans­for­ma­tion for a red-car­pet char­ity event. The thrifty young man, mostly seen in plaid trousers and baggy fleece shirts at work picks a sharp din­ner jacket, a crisp white shirt and fit­ted black trousers from haute la­bels and men­tions that he is aware how good clothes make a strong im­pact.

Clothes do make a man. In an in­dus­try where the spot­light is of­ten on the dreamy ball gown or the lux­u­ri­ous sari, there are those cel­e­brated de­sign­ers who earn their bread craft­ing the per­fect tuxe­dos, the stream­lined pants and the sharpest shirt. Their en­er­gies are trained at mak­ing menswear fab­u­lous yet com­fort­able so that the de­ci­sion-maker in the board­room feels smart and con­fi­dent when he calls those im­por­tant shots to seal the deal. There is a thing about for­mal wear that even men can’t ig­nore. And some se­ri­ously good shirts.

Says Ak­shay Narvekar, owner of the Bom­bay Shirt Com­pany (spe­cialised in cus­tom-made be­spoke shirts) that set up shop in New York last Novem­ber, “Wear­ing a well-fit­ted, well-con­structed shirt gives the wearer an im­mea­sur­able level of con­fi­dence. How you feel in­ter­nally is then re­flected ex­ter­nally. A crisp shirt with very few or al­most no stretch lines talks aloud about the per­son­al­ity of a per­son show­ing how or­gan­ised or so­phis­ti­cated they are in their thought pro­cesses. Real lux­ury is in a tai­lored ap­parel. It takes time but it’s be­spoke.”

The young en­tre­pre­neur, who launched BSC out of his own love for cus­tom-made shirts opines that the two main con­sid­er­a­tions while craft­ing a shirt are the fab­ric and the col­lar con­struc­tion. “A great shirt is re­ally a sum of all the many parts, but the fab­ric and col­lar are prob­a­bly the most im­por­tant. Cer­tain fab­rics like

We have al­ways be­lieved that a well-con­structed shirt pro­vides the wearer with the con­fi­dence and pres­ence that a tee-shirt rarely can. A good shirt must fit im­mac­u­lately and not pull across ei­ther the shoul­ders or waist. The col­lar must sit per­fectly, too.

royal ox­fords, dobby and hound­stooth are per­fect for work wear while poplins, satins, den­ims are bet­ter choices for ca­sual shirts. Per­fect col­lars make or break per­son­al­i­ties so one needs to be ex­tremely cau­tious while se­lect­ing the col­lar and the con­trasts,” he ex­plains.

Noted menswear de­signer Sahil Aneja speaks about the col­lar as well. “A shirt should have a neat ironed col­lar, pos­si­bly a but­ton down to keep the col­lar in place through­out the day. The most im­por­tant as­pect of shirt would be the fit. If the wearer is com­fort­able in their clothes then it re­flects on the wearer’s be­hav­iour in a pos­i­tive way,” say Aneja who is all set to launch his lat­est col­lec­tion called Er­ror, which means a mis­take or a glitch.

The con­struc­tion of the shirt is such that it im­plies sim­plic­ity, avers Aneja. Apart from be­ing so­phis­ti­cated, the sil­hou­ette is very ver­sa­tile which com­ple­ments all body shapes. Prob­a­bly the rea­son why it is a gar­ment the stylish man takes so much care to pick and choose. Even though it has a ver­sa­tile sil­hou­ette, it has to cut to per­fec­tion to en­hance one’s shoul­der struc­ture. “Wear­ing a well-fit shirt gives the man a neat look and a con­fi­dent aura,” quips the de­signer.

Con­fi­dence. A qual­ity that can make or mar a man’s per­sona. A great shirt goes a long way in adding to that. Says David Abra­ham of Abra­ham & Thakore, “We have al­ways be­lieved that a well-con­structed shirt pro­vides the wearer with the con­fi­dence and pres­ence that a tee-shirt rarely can. A good shirt must fit im­mac­u­lately and not pull across ei­ther the shoul­ders or waist. The col­lar must sit per­fectly, too.”

The only Asian menswear to snap up the In­ter­na­tional Wool­mark Prize, Suket Dhir, is how­ever, of the opin­ion that any great gar­ment is one that en­hances the wearer’s per­son­al­ity. “It has to be about the wearer and not just about the shirt but both have to come to­gether bril­liantly. It has to be ab­so­lutely com­fort­able and look dig­ni­fied at the same time. And here, su­perla­tive fit is the key,” Dhir says. The de­signer who has floored the global au­di­ence with his sharp yet quirky menswear ever since he bagged the cov­eted award in 2016, lays equal em­pha­sis on the five Fs when it comes to a good shirt. “Feel, fab­ric, fin­ish, fit and fash­ion are all equally im­por­tant as­pects. If you dim down ei­ther, the shirt would fall flat. A stylish man is one who is not will­ing to com­pro­mise on any of these qual­i­ties ei­ther in the board­room where he makes mil­lion-dol­lar deals or while loung­ing with his friends,” he elab­o­rates.

A good shirt, there­fore, is the one which is com­fort­able and doesn’t bog the man down. It fits like a dream. Ad­mits menswear ex­pert Pawan Sachdeva, “A shirt is good only if it’s easy to wear and makes one feel re­laxed. One wrong stitch or cut can ruin the fit of shirt. This is where be­spoke prod­ucts rule. It is the amal­ga­ma­tion of fab­u­lous fit, good fab­ric as well as col­lar and cuff de­tails. If all this is taken care of, the shirt is on point,” af­firms the fash­ion de­signer.

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