A jay Sood sets on a ourney, tracing the symbols of faith across this junction of cultures
Goa has seen the most extended and persisting in luence of non-native faith imposed on the locals. This has placed the region at a strange crossroad of peaceful coexistence of religions. While many Hindu temples existed here, innumerable Portuguese churches sprang up all around the region. Even the military forts housed shrines – both Hindu and Christian. Many of these structures of faith date back centuries. In this edition of Postcards, let us feast our eyes on some of the sterling structures that include a few from the UNESCO-listed ‘Churches and Convents of Goa’!
Goa’s northern-most fort, Fort Tiracol, houses the Chapel of Holy Trinity. It was built in mideighteenth century after the Portuguese captured it. It was later christened Church of St. Anthony, and it opens for general public on special occasions like the annual feast in May.
First built in 1541 and later replaced by a larger church in the 1600s, Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Church is a prominent landmark in Panjim. Since it sits atop a hill, for the convenience of devotees, a symmetrical zigzag staircase was added to it in the eighteenth century.
Basilica of Bom Jesus was built on the cusp of the 16th and 17th centuries. Located in Old Goa, it features on the list of UNESCO-inscribed Churches and Convents of Goa. It houses the mummi ied mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier.
St. Anthony’s Church is housed inside the Cabo de Rama Fort in Canacona, Goa. Locals know this simply as the Cabo de Rama Church. The church was built after the Portuguese captured Cabo de Rama Fort in 1591 CE.
Located in Bicholim Taluka 45 km from Panjim, Rudreshwar Temple is a new temple built to house an ancient linga. The temple is just a stone’s throw from the 6th century Harvalem (Arvalem) Caves and the Arvalem Waterfalls.
We may call the Holy Spirit Church of Margao a phoenix, for it rose from its ashes ive times. First built in 1564, the structure we see today is its ifth avatar that came about in 1675. Locals also simply call it the Margao church.
When the Portuguese started converting the locals to Christianity, the local Saraswat brahmins moved the Mangesh Linga from Cortalim to Priol in Ponda in 1560 CE as the village was then ruled by a Hindu king. In a recent renovation, Mangeshi Temple’s tallest dome was embellished with a golden kalash. Its deep stambh (lamps pillar) is a striking structure.
Not too far from the Shantadurga Temple is Shri Gopal Ganpati Devasthan. A foot-long statue of Lord Ganesha was found by a shepherd called Hapo about a century ago. He consecrated it in a small mandapa made of coconut branches. This temple came up on that location.
Shri Vitthal Temple, located in Sanquelim, is 45 km from Panjim. Rebuilt in 1942 by the Rane families who relocated from Udaipur, it is located on the banks of Valvanta River. Its interior is aesthetic, cavernous and modern.
Shantadurga Temple is 30 km from Panjim and is located at Kavalem village in Ponda. Built between 1713 and 1738 CE, the structure sports a collection of pyramidal roofs and a couple of domes. This temple too has a deep stambh (lamps pillar) in its precincts.
Shridev Bhumikav Vetal Prasann, located in Paliyem, is a huge temple where Lord Shiva is worshipped as Shri Vetal, his warrior form. This temple was a chance discovery for me as I was driving through this tiny hamlet to reach Fort Tiracol.
Inside Shri Vitthal Temple at Sanquelim, tastefully painted colourful pillars and a shiny mosaic looring is a refreshing departure from the usual dark, not-so-clean interiors of most temples.
Founded by Jesuits in 1570, St. Andrews Church is a prominent landmark of Vasco da Gama, Goa. Its current neo-gothic looks may be attributed to multiple renovations necessitated by demolition by aggressors and elements.
While the interior of the Basilica of Bom Jesus is simple, its marble loor is inlaid with precious stones, and the altar, gilded!
Reis Magos Church is located at the foot of the hill that houses Fort Reis Magos. Its name means ‘three magi’ (three wise men) in Portuguese. Visible from across the Mandovi River, this 16th century church used to play host to all visiting church dignitaries.
Se Cathedral took 57 years to build and was commissioned to commemorate the victory of the Portuguese over the Muslims. One of its two towers collapsed in 1776 and was never rebuilt. This cathedral is part of the UNESCO inscription ‘The Churches and Convents of Goa’.