Tips on Flower Photography
Flowers bring a sense of freshness into our lives. Here are a few tips, which, when followed, can improve your flower photography.
Here are a few tips from Uncle Ronnie for photographing lowers like a pro
It makes sense to photograph flowers early in the mornings or late in the evenings when the light is not harsh. Harsh light makes the shadows go too deep (devoid of detail) and highlights to overexpose.
For the best image quality, try to photograph flowers at the base ISO (generally ISO 100). As you increase ISO, digital noise creeps in and you also lose dynamic range. A dedicated macro lens can yield better image quality and is convenient to use. (This does not mean that you cannot use other methods, like the use of close-up filters, extension tubes etc.)
Consider using a sturdy tripod, especially, if the light is inadequate. A tripod will also allow you to use narrow apertures like f/11 or f/16 without using flash or increasing the ISO sensitivity. Keep in mind that there will be occasions when the use of a tripod will be cumbersome.
Wait for the breeze to die down before you release the shutter. In your excitement of the shot, don’t jab at the shutter release button; gently squeeze it down. Shoot in
Raw. You could set your White Balance to Auto, though personally, I set my WB to Daylight. In Adobe Camera Raw (ACR), you can always change the WB to the one you prefer.
Know where to focus and remember that the depth of field will be very shallow. Some photographers like a part of the flower sharp, leaving the rest blurred; some others like to have the entire flower sharp. If you are not sure which method you prefer, shoot both ways.
Do keep in mind that even at a narrow aperture like f/16, the depth of field at 1:1 magnification (life size) can be in the region of around 3 mm!
If you can, avoid using very narrow apertures like f/16, f/22 and f/32. The narrower the aperture, the greater is the DoF, but when using such apertures, the optical phenomenon known as ‘diffraction of light’ will cause the entire image to go ‘soft’. You may not notice the softness if your picture size is reasonably small, but, you’ll be able to notice the softness on larger prints.
Look for flowers that have not been eaten by insects or wilted due to age/heat.
Sometimes, you may find stinging insects like bees on the flowers or hovering around them. No need to panic; do your work without making any sudden jerky movements. If you have a medical condition where a bee-sting could be life-threatening, it may be safer for you to avoid taking such photos.
Very often, water sprayed on a flower can make the flower appear fresh.
What if you don’t have a choice and must photograph flowers in harsh sunlight? It is a good idea to carry a foldable ‘diffuser’. Hold the diffuser between
May 2021
the flower and the sun and you’ll immediately see that the light on the flowers has softened. Bringing the diffuser closer to the flowers will soften the contrast; increasing the distance between the flowers and the diffuser will make the contrast comparatively stronger.
It is also a good idea to carry a portable ‘reflector’. When angled correctly, you will be able to reflect some of the light back into the shadow regions and thereby, reduce the strong contrast of a harsh sun.
Should you autofocus or focus manually? The choice is yours. I initially autofocus and then override the AF to fine-tune on that part of the flower which I want the sharpest.
Do consider ‘focus stacking’ if there is no breeze or you are photographing the flower in a studio. If your camera does not allow automatic focus stacking, you can do so manually. Of course, using a sturdy tripod is a must. Using the optimum aperture on your lens, carefully focus manually on the closest part of the flower and take a shot. For the next shot, focus a bit further (may be a few millimetres), but keep your shooting parameters the same. Continue doing so till your focus reaches the other end of the flower.
Now, transfer all your images to your computer and either use Photoshop or use dedicated software like Helicon Focus or Zerene Stacker to create a sharp end-to-end flower study.
Consider carrying a lightweight portable backdrop for those occasions where you find the background disturbing. The backdrop could be a coloured paper or one that is painted, for example, with soft pastel colours and may be with out of focus clouds. You can ask a friend to hold the backdrop behind the flower/s and at an appropriate distance.
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