WHAT ARE THE POS­SI­BLE REA­SONS FOR IN­DIA’S RE­CENTLY SUB­DUED PER­FOR­MANCE IN EX­PORT­ING EM­BROI­DERED GAR­MENTS?

Stitch World - - NEWS -

Em­broi­dery was once the strength of the In­dian gar­ment and tex­tile in­dus­try. How­ever, de­spite be­ing a sec­tor hav­ing an ex­ten­sive work­force of ap­prox­i­mately 22 lakh, In­dia is los­ing or­ders of em­broi­dered gar­ments to Bangladesh, Viet­nam, and Cam­bo­dia which, un­til a decade back, were con­sid­ered lag­gards. What could be the pos­si­ble rea­sons for In­dia’s re­cently sub­dued per­for­mance in ex­port­ing em­broi­dered gar­ments? Do you think In­dia needs to re­vamp its em­broi­dery in­dus­try by in­tro­duc­ing skill-sets, and also by mak­ing bet­ter use of the avail­able tech­nol­ogy?

It’s true that our coun­try is los­ing many ex­port or­ders of gar­ments, es­pe­cially em­broi­dered. The main rea­son for In­dia los­ing its rank­ing in this seg­ment is lack of tech­ni­cal in­com­pe­tence among the ma­jor­ity of the front run­ners. In­dian gar­ment man­u­fac­tur­ers as busi­ness­men have to un­der­stand the need of in­vest­ing in the right tech­nol­ogy with lower cost of own­er­ship, in­stead of buy­ing lower cost of tech­nol­ogy. It’s im­por­tant for us to there­fore start fo­cus­ing on how to in­crease ef­fi­ciency and qual­ity.

Be­low are some more rea­sons for In­dia los­ing in the em­broi­dery do­main:

1. Ne­go­ti­at­ing with the buyer is a very cru­cial point while fi­nal­is­ing the or­der. One has to un­der­stand and learn how to quote for the or­der cost­ing for spe­cialised em­broi­dery ap­pli­ca­tions and of­fer best suit­able price with in­ter­na­tional com­pe­tency and make it a win-win sit­u­a­tion.

2. The man­u­fac­tur­ers need to ex­plore the max­i­mum au­to­ma­tion pos­si­bil­i­ties to re­duce the man­u­fac­tur­ing cost and pro­vide fi­nal prod­uct with best com­pe­tency.

3. The man­u­fac­tur­ers need to have clear sub­ject knowl­edge and re­sources avail­abil­ity and should pay at­ten­tion to the tech­nol­ogy up­grades in the In­ter­na­tional mar­ket.

4. Work-life bal­ance is a very im­por­tant thing to boost pro­duc­tiv­ity by bal­anc­ing Achieve­ment and En­joy­ment in ev­ery­day life.

It’s very im­por­tant to learn how to get max­i­mum out­put from one’s ma­chine. Also, in In­dian em­broi­dery in­dus­try, for gar­ments in ma­jor­ity, we’re still us­ing 18 head em­broi­dery ma­chines. On the other hand, coun­tries have started work­ing on big­ger ca­pac­ity ma­chines with sim­i­lar spec­i­fi­ca­tion hav­ing per cent ~ 50 per cent higher ca­pac­ity with 24 & 28 heads.

For tex­tile em­broi­dery, ma­jor­ity of In­ter­na­tional com­pet­i­tive mar­ket has been up­graded to 176 head em­broi­dery ma­chines, which in­creases the pro­duc­tion and de­creases the em­broi­dery cost. In this era of In­dus­trial Rev­o­lu­tion 4.0, we need to change our mind­set and start in­vest­ing in the tech­nol­ogy with high au­to­ma­tion.

An­other com­mon is­sue we have no­ticed is waste of time be­cause of the time in­volved in chang­ing the bob­bin and hence the pro­duc­tion process also get­ting ham­pered. Ap­prox­i­mately an op­er­a­tor wastes around 15 per cent of work­ing ef­fi­ciency in a day due to chang­ing of the bob­bin. We have a suc­cess­ful so­lu­tion for this, i.e. au­to­matic bob­bin changer and wind­ing which can save one’s time.

De­spite easy avail­abil­ity of these in the mar­ket, peo­ple dont in­vest in them. Other coun­tries be­lieve in in­vest­ing more on the new tech­nolo­gies which is a ma­jor rea­son be­hind our fall­ing rank.

We, at Aura, keep on work­ing for in­vent­ing trend­set­ting tech­nolo­gies which can be ben­e­fi­cial for ex­porters and em­broi­dery job­work­ers. By us­ing these tech­nolo­gies, an ex­porter can re­duce the cost­ing of em­broi­dered gar­ments, in­crease the em­broi­dery speed, im­prove the qual­ity of em­broi­dery and innovate new em­broi­dery styles and de­signs, and hence, tempt his/her buy­ers.

We re­cently in­tro­duced the In­dian em­broi­dery in­dus­try with a sub­sti­tute of wa­ter-sol­u­ble which can help ex­porters in re­duc­ing em­broi­dery cost, im­prov­ing qual­ity and sta­bil­ity of em­broi­dery and most im­por­tantly, in sav­ing wa­ter.

To solve the above men­tioned prob­lems, we’ve started an ex­clu­sive train­ing plan for em­broi­dery in which we train mer­chan­dis­ers on A-Z of em­broi­dery ma­chines. These train­ing ses­sions help them in

un­der­stand­ing the em­broi­dery ma­chine and ways to con­trol the qual­ity and cost­ing of em­broi­dery.

DEEPAK CHOUD­HARY TEAM LEADER, AURA TECH­NOLO­GIES, NOIDA (IN­DIA)

In­dia’s ap­parel ex­ports con­tinue to re­main volatile and non-en­cour­ag­ing with the global ap­parel trade not show­ing any signs of up­ward trend. The lat­est trends point to­ward a third con­sec­u­tive year of de­cline in global ap­parel trade which ob­vi­ously has ham­pered the em­broi­dery seg­ment too. How­ever, the de­clin­ing over­all trend is not the only rea­son be­hind the down­fall of the em­broi­dery in­dus­try.

What In­dian ex­porters need to re­alise is that even though In­dia’s em­broi­dery ex­port has gone down, global re­quire­ment for em­broi­dered gar­ments has in­creased in the past few years. Em­broi­dery still re­mains very much in fash­ion. With SMART work, cost­ef­fec­tive pro­duc­tion and Gov­ern­ment sup­port, we can put In­dia back on top of the list in terms of em­broi­dery ex­port. In­tel­li­gent work­ing and skilled labour are the an­swers here. Also, lack of tech­nol­ogy adap­ta­tion is also ham­per­ing the pro­duc­tiv­ity of the In­dian em­broi­dery sec­tor. It is ad­vised that peo­ple start us­ing avail­able tech­nol­ogy in the most op­ti­mum way to re­duce cost of op­er­a­tion and thereby, re­duce over­all cost of the em­broi­dered gar­ments.

GEETIKA ANAND VICE PRES­I­DENT (EM­BROI­DERY DI­VI­SION), HCA, DELHI (IN­DIA)

Em­broi­dery is the old­est and most pop­u­lar form of sur­face beau­ti­fi­ca­tion of fab­rics and, no doubt, In­dia is one of the top sup­pli­ers of em­broi­dered fab­rics and gar­ment. But, em­broi­dery sec­tor is to­tally un­or­gan­ised in In­dia. The tra­di­tional em­broi­dery re­quires unique skill-set and time for se­quence work, crys­tal, bead work, stone work and tra­di­tional mo­tifs. How­ever, most of the ex­porters in this seg­ment do not have their own set-up and de­pend on out­sourc­ing for em­broi­dery and bead/se­quence work.

Mostly the em­broi­dery ma­chines are im­ported from Ger­many, Ja­pan, Tai­wan and China and In­dia is still lack­ing when it comes to im­part­ing train­ing to the work­ers for op­er­at­ing the ma­chines ef­fec­tively. The pa­ram­e­ters of the train­ing are de­sign punch, types of em­broi­dery thread, un­der­stand­ing of fab­ric base and the speed of ma­chines which are manda­tory to learn in or­der to get de­sired ef­fi­ciency in em­broi­dery di­vi­sion.

More­over, an op­er­a­tor of the ma­chine should know how to get a pre­cise sharp­ness of de­sign. How­ever, with­out cor­rect plan­ning and ex­e­cu­tion, em­broi­dery can ren­der the end prod­uct cost to rise and this is ex­actly what is hap­pen­ing in In­dia lately. In­dia utilises barely 50 per cent of this do­main. In­dian em­broi­dery in­dus­try should re­vamp and en­cour­age this in­dus­try to up­lift by giv­ing suf­fi­cient train­ing, de­sign de­vel­op­ment in the area of com­put­erised em­broi­dery.

Fur­ther­more, the widened gap be­tween the hand em­broi­dery and the CAD em­broi­dery needs to nar­row down, and ini­tia­tives need to be taken to en­cour­age the work­force and make em­broi­dery cost-ef­fec­tive. This is the only way to re­duce prices of em­broi­dered gar­ments and stay rel­e­vant in the mar­ket.

RM N RA­MANATHAN IN­DE­PEN­DENT AP­PAREL CON­SUL­TANT, BAN­GA­LORE (IN­DIA)

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