WHAT ARE THE POSSIBLE REASONS FOR INDIA’S RECENTLY SUBDUED PERFORMANCE IN EXPORTING EMBROIDERED GARMENTS?
Embroidery was once the strength of the Indian garment and textile industry. However, despite being a sector having an extensive workforce of approximately 22 lakh, India is losing orders of embroidered garments to Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Cambodia which, until a decade back, were considered laggards. What could be the possible reasons for India’s recently subdued performance in exporting embroidered garments? Do you think India needs to revamp its embroidery industry by introducing skill-sets, and also by making better use of the available technology?
It’s true that our country is losing many export orders of garments, especially embroidered. The main reason for India losing its ranking in this segment is lack of technical incompetence among the majority of the front runners. Indian garment manufacturers as businessmen have to understand the need of investing in the right technology with lower cost of ownership, instead of buying lower cost of technology. It’s important for us to therefore start focusing on how to increase efficiency and quality.
Below are some more reasons for India losing in the embroidery domain:
1. Negotiating with the buyer is a very crucial point while finalising the order. One has to understand and learn how to quote for the order costing for specialised embroidery applications and offer best suitable price with international competency and make it a win-win situation.
2. The manufacturers need to explore the maximum automation possibilities to reduce the manufacturing cost and provide final product with best competency.
3. The manufacturers need to have clear subject knowledge and resources availability and should pay attention to the technology upgrades in the International market.
4. Work-life balance is a very important thing to boost productivity by balancing Achievement and Enjoyment in everyday life.
It’s very important to learn how to get maximum output from one’s machine. Also, in Indian embroidery industry, for garments in majority, we’re still using 18 head embroidery machines. On the other hand, countries have started working on bigger capacity machines with similar specification having per cent ~ 50 per cent higher capacity with 24 & 28 heads.
For textile embroidery, majority of International competitive market has been upgraded to 176 head embroidery machines, which increases the production and decreases the embroidery cost. In this era of Industrial Revolution 4.0, we need to change our mindset and start investing in the technology with high automation.
Another common issue we have noticed is waste of time because of the time involved in changing the bobbin and hence the production process also getting hampered. Approximately an operator wastes around 15 per cent of working efficiency in a day due to changing of the bobbin. We have a successful solution for this, i.e. automatic bobbin changer and winding which can save one’s time.
Despite easy availability of these in the market, people dont invest in them. Other countries believe in investing more on the new technologies which is a major reason behind our falling rank.
We, at Aura, keep on working for inventing trendsetting technologies which can be beneficial for exporters and embroidery jobworkers. By using these technologies, an exporter can reduce the costing of embroidered garments, increase the embroidery speed, improve the quality of embroidery and innovate new embroidery styles and designs, and hence, tempt his/her buyers.
We recently introduced the Indian embroidery industry with a substitute of water-soluble which can help exporters in reducing embroidery cost, improving quality and stability of embroidery and most importantly, in saving water.
To solve the above mentioned problems, we’ve started an exclusive training plan for embroidery in which we train merchandisers on A-Z of embroidery machines. These training sessions help them in
understanding the embroidery machine and ways to control the quality and costing of embroidery.
DEEPAK CHOUDHARY TEAM LEADER, AURA TECHNOLOGIES, NOIDA (INDIA)
India’s apparel exports continue to remain volatile and non-encouraging with the global apparel trade not showing any signs of upward trend. The latest trends point toward a third consecutive year of decline in global apparel trade which obviously has hampered the embroidery segment too. However, the declining overall trend is not the only reason behind the downfall of the embroidery industry.
What Indian exporters need to realise is that even though India’s embroidery export has gone down, global requirement for embroidered garments has increased in the past few years. Embroidery still remains very much in fashion. With SMART work, costeffective production and Government support, we can put India back on top of the list in terms of embroidery export. Intelligent working and skilled labour are the answers here. Also, lack of technology adaptation is also hampering the productivity of the Indian embroidery sector. It is advised that people start using available technology in the most optimum way to reduce cost of operation and thereby, reduce overall cost of the embroidered garments.
GEETIKA ANAND VICE PRESIDENT (EMBROIDERY DIVISION), HCA, DELHI (INDIA)
Embroidery is the oldest and most popular form of surface beautification of fabrics and, no doubt, India is one of the top suppliers of embroidered fabrics and garment. But, embroidery sector is totally unorganised in India. The traditional embroidery requires unique skill-set and time for sequence work, crystal, bead work, stone work and traditional motifs. However, most of the exporters in this segment do not have their own set-up and depend on outsourcing for embroidery and bead/sequence work.
Mostly the embroidery machines are imported from Germany, Japan, Taiwan and China and India is still lacking when it comes to imparting training to the workers for operating the machines effectively. The parameters of the training are design punch, types of embroidery thread, understanding of fabric base and the speed of machines which are mandatory to learn in order to get desired efficiency in embroidery division.
Moreover, an operator of the machine should know how to get a precise sharpness of design. However, without correct planning and execution, embroidery can render the end product cost to rise and this is exactly what is happening in India lately. India utilises barely 50 per cent of this domain. Indian embroidery industry should revamp and encourage this industry to uplift by giving sufficient training, design development in the area of computerised embroidery.
Furthermore, the widened gap between the hand embroidery and the CAD embroidery needs to narrow down, and initiatives need to be taken to encourage the workforce and make embroidery cost-effective. This is the only way to reduce prices of embroidered garments and stay relevant in the market.
RM N RAMANATHAN INDEPENDENT APPAREL CONSULTANT, BANGALORE (INDIA)