MACHINES TO LOOK OUT FOR T-SHIRT SLEEVE HEMMING OPERATION
Lately, garment manufacturing has not been so alluring due to buyer’s pressure on the manufacturers to reduce their margins. However, the manufacturers are worried as raw material cost is already skyrocketing and they are bound to increase the prices of their products too. But, the question will always remain the same as to why the buyer should pay what you ask them for? The answer lies in the fact that the manufacturers have no other option than providing the best of quality and improving their floor’s productivity to fight this price challenge.
In mass production, there are a lot of operations where quality can be improved. One such operation is sleeve hemming which is still an overlooked operation when it comes to using automation to improve both productivity and quality. Sleeve hemming in knitwear ( especially a T-shirt) is done by folding the edge and getting it stitched by the sewing machine. Team StitchWorld discusses here those advanced sewing technologies that are widely available in the market for manufacturers who want to opt for sewing technology but are unaware of what popular options are available in the market.
Juki has a lot of sewing technology varieties in its product basket. For T-shirt sleeve hemming, Juki offers MF7500/ U11 machine which is Universal sleeve hemmer, though of basic type, and not fully automatic. The machine can be used for the hemming process of the sleeves and bottoms of T-shirts and for the covering process in sportswear and knitwear. The front cover is trimmed to allow operators to bring their hands closer near the needle entry area, thereby increasing work efficiency in the covering process.
With new feeding system, the feed locus can be adjusted in both vertical and horizontal directions, thus improving responsiveness to sewing materials. The longitudinal position of the feed is adjustable. As a result, uneven material feed and puckering, that are likely to occur when sewing products made of elastic material, are reduced. This means that the machine promises improved responsiveness to elastic materials and hence provides better quality of hemming operation.
Markedly, unlike the conventional models, the oiling mechanism inside the frame has been eliminated and replaced with dryhead technology. As a result, the oil does not leak from the needle bar, presser bar or spreader shaft.
Additionally, the machine comes equipped with direct- drive motor system as well as with a thread trimmer. As a result, the sewing machine starts up swiftly and promises increased stop accuracy, thereby demonstrating improved responsiveness. In addition, the machine is no longer provided
with a V- belt. This means that the adoption of the directdrive motor is also effective in the elimination of belt shavings. Power is directly transmitted from the motor to the sewing machine, thereby contributing to reduced power consumption. This sewing machine reduces power consumption by 29 per cent as compared to the conventional models claimed by Juki. The production output of the machine is 110 pieces per hour.
Japanese pioneer in providing industrial sewing machines, Pegasus, has developed EXT-5100 series for T-shirt sleeve hemming operation. The machine automates and deskills difficult sleeve hemming operation in knitwear.
As far as machine mechanism is concerned, the operator just has to place the fabric in the needle area and the machine automatically performs the hemming operations by sensing the edge of the fabric through a sensor, thereby, providing a uniform and quality product.
Further, a small cylindrical bed is provided for small cylindrical garments. The circumference of the bed is just 148 mm which helps to sew the small goods smoothly such as hemming sleeves on kidswear and T-shirts.
Markedly, there is a push button to adjust stitch length. All that the operator has to do is to press the button and turn the machine pulley. Thus, the feature has eased the process. Moreover, the machine comes equipped with various labour saving devices such as vertical type vacuum chain cutter, electric hemming device, fabric tensioner, presser foot lift and pneumatically- operated lint collector. All these devices help the operator to save time of the operation, thereby improving productivity to a greater extent.
Japanese sewing technology provider Yamato offers VG2700- 8, a high speed 2/3 needle cylinder- bed interlock stitch machine with air- operated automatic underbed and top thread trimmer. The machine provides hemming operation at the sleeve and the bottom of T-shirts and polo-shirts and ensures smoother operation.
The machine is studded with ‘Active Thread Control ( PAT. P)’ which, unlike the conventional way of thread control, takes in and draws back thread when it is required, and comprises of well- balanced seams with minimum necessary tension for thread regulation. Besides ‘ Non Stain ( PAT. P)’ technology has been introduced to minimise oil stains in the garment products. This stops oil splash during sleeve hemming operation.
In addition, VG2700- 8 comes fitted with ‘ Walking Foot ( WF1)’ system which is primarily installed to slide back and forth in co- operation with lower feed dogs movement and the pressure of presser foot which can be set as lower as possible with this system. Therefore, it helps in smooth feeding and bolsters the effect of preventing twisting during the long hemming operation.
Schips HS C9K
Swiss sewing technology provider Schips is one of the prominent companies providing sleeve hemming solutions. Its HS C9K, a twoneedle cover stitch machine, can perform hemming of sleeves, breast pockets, front and back parts of T-shirts and polo shirts.
The machine provides high quality and consistent hem width from the beginning to the end of the seam due to the optimum conception of features such as hemming guide, special sewing parts, top conveyor belt, right hand independently driven side knife and thread chain cutting system. High productivity is achieved through the quick and permanent loading of the automat and practically uninterrupted sewing with maximum sewing speed.
Further, fully automatic sewing cycle is achieved because of the conveyor belts integrated in the table and stacker, resulting in reduced training time of the operator. Moreover, movable frame with height adjustment for ergonomic working eases service. Flexible upgrades of the modular automat is possible in the machine as it is supported by the high-tech and efficient electronics.
The productivity of the machine is 1,375 sleeves per hour.