Stitch World - - NEWS -

Lately, gar­ment man­u­fac­tur­ing has not been so al­lur­ing due to buyer’s pres­sure on the man­u­fac­tur­ers to re­duce their mar­gins. How­ever, the man­u­fac­tur­ers are wor­ried as raw ma­te­rial cost is al­ready sky­rock­et­ing and they are bound to in­crease the prices of their prod­ucts too. But, the ques­tion will al­ways re­main the same as to why the buyer should pay what you ask them for? The an­swer lies in the fact that the man­u­fac­tur­ers have no other op­tion than pro­vid­ing the best of qual­ity and im­prov­ing their floor’s pro­duc­tiv­ity to fight this price chal­lenge.

In mass pro­duc­tion, there are a lot of op­er­a­tions where qual­ity can be im­proved. One such op­er­a­tion is sleeve hemming which is still an over­looked op­er­a­tion when it comes to us­ing au­to­ma­tion to im­prove both pro­duc­tiv­ity and qual­ity. Sleeve hemming in knitwear ( es­pe­cially a T-shirt) is done by fold­ing the edge and get­ting it stitched by the sewing ma­chine. Team StitchWorld dis­cusses here those ad­vanced sewing tech­nolo­gies that are widely avail­able in the mar­ket for man­u­fac­tur­ers who want to opt for sewing tech­nol­ogy but are un­aware of what pop­u­lar op­tions are avail­able in the mar­ket.

Juki MF7500/U11

Juki has a lot of sewing tech­nol­ogy va­ri­eties in its prod­uct bas­ket. For T-shirt sleeve hemming, Juki of­fers MF7500/ U11 ma­chine which is Uni­ver­sal sleeve hem­mer, though of ba­sic type, and not fully au­to­matic. The ma­chine can be used for the hemming process of the sleeves and bot­toms of T-shirts and for the cov­er­ing process in sports­wear and knitwear. The front cover is trimmed to al­low op­er­a­tors to bring their hands closer near the nee­dle en­try area, thereby in­creas­ing work ef­fi­ciency in the cov­er­ing process.

With new feed­ing sys­tem, the feed lo­cus can be ad­justed in both ver­ti­cal and hor­i­zon­tal di­rec­tions, thus im­prov­ing re­spon­sive­ness to sewing ma­te­ri­als. The lon­gi­tu­di­nal po­si­tion of the feed is ad­justable. As a re­sult, un­even ma­te­rial feed and puck­er­ing, that are likely to oc­cur when sewing prod­ucts made of elas­tic ma­te­rial, are re­duced. This means that the ma­chine prom­ises im­proved re­spon­sive­ness to elas­tic ma­te­ri­als and hence pro­vides bet­ter qual­ity of hemming op­er­a­tion.

Markedly, un­like the con­ven­tional mod­els, the oil­ing mech­a­nism in­side the frame has been elim­i­nated and re­placed with dry­head tech­nol­ogy. As a re­sult, the oil does not leak from the nee­dle bar, presser bar or spreader shaft.

Ad­di­tion­ally, the ma­chine comes equipped with di­rect- drive motor sys­tem as well as with a thread trim­mer. As a re­sult, the sewing ma­chine starts up swiftly and prom­ises in­creased stop ac­cu­racy, thereby demon­strat­ing im­proved re­spon­sive­ness. In ad­di­tion, the ma­chine is no longer pro­vided

with a V- belt. This means that the adop­tion of the di­rect­drive motor is also ef­fec­tive in the elim­i­na­tion of belt shav­ings. Power is di­rectly trans­mit­ted from the motor to the sewing ma­chine, thereby con­tribut­ing to re­duced power con­sump­tion. This sewing ma­chine re­duces power con­sump­tion by 29 per cent as com­pared to the con­ven­tional mod­els claimed by Juki. The pro­duc­tion out­put of the ma­chine is 110 pieces per hour.

Pe­ga­sus EXT-5100

Ja­panese pi­o­neer in pro­vid­ing in­dus­trial sewing ma­chines, Pe­ga­sus, has de­vel­oped EXT-5100 se­ries for T-shirt sleeve hemming op­er­a­tion. The ma­chine au­to­mates and deskills dif­fi­cult sleeve hemming op­er­a­tion in knitwear.

As far as ma­chine mech­a­nism is con­cerned, the oper­a­tor just has to place the fab­ric in the nee­dle area and the ma­chine au­to­mat­i­cally per­forms the hemming op­er­a­tions by sens­ing the edge of the fab­ric through a sen­sor, thereby, pro­vid­ing a uni­form and qual­ity prod­uct.

Fur­ther, a small cylin­dri­cal bed is pro­vided for small cylin­dri­cal gar­ments. The cir­cum­fer­ence of the bed is just 148 mm which helps to sew the small goods smoothly such as hemming sleeves on kidswear and T-shirts.

Markedly, there is a push but­ton to ad­just stitch length. All that the oper­a­tor has to do is to press the but­ton and turn the ma­chine pul­ley. Thus, the fea­ture has eased the process. More­over, the ma­chine comes equipped with var­i­ous labour sav­ing de­vices such as ver­ti­cal type vac­uum chain cut­ter, elec­tric hemming de­vice, fab­ric ten­sioner, presser foot lift and pneu­mat­i­cally- op­er­ated lint col­lec­tor. All these de­vices help the oper­a­tor to save time of the op­er­a­tion, thereby im­prov­ing pro­duc­tiv­ity to a greater ex­tent.

Yam­ato VG2700-8

Ja­panese sewing tech­nol­ogy provider Yam­ato of­fers VG2700- 8, a high speed 2/3 nee­dle cylin­der- bed in­ter­lock stitch ma­chine with air- op­er­ated au­to­matic un­der­bed and top thread trim­mer. The ma­chine pro­vides hemming op­er­a­tion at the sleeve and the bot­tom of T-shirts and polo-shirts and en­sures smoother op­er­a­tion.

The ma­chine is stud­ded with ‘Ac­tive Thread Con­trol ( PAT. P)’ which, un­like the con­ven­tional way of thread con­trol, takes in and draws back thread when it is re­quired, and com­prises of well- bal­anced seams with min­i­mum nec­es­sary ten­sion for thread reg­u­la­tion. Be­sides ‘ Non Stain ( PAT. P)’ tech­nol­ogy has been in­tro­duced to min­imise oil stains in the gar­ment prod­ucts. This stops oil splash dur­ing sleeve hemming op­er­a­tion.

In ad­di­tion, VG2700- 8 comes fit­ted with ‘ Walk­ing Foot ( WF1)’ sys­tem which is pri­mar­ily in­stalled to slide back and forth in co- op­er­a­tion with lower feed dogs move­ment and the pres­sure of presser foot which can be set as lower as pos­si­ble with this sys­tem. There­fore, it helps in smooth feed­ing and bol­sters the ef­fect of pre­vent­ing twist­ing dur­ing the long hemming op­er­a­tion.

Schips HS C9K

Swiss sewing tech­nol­ogy provider Schips is one of the prom­i­nent com­pa­nies pro­vid­ing sleeve hemming so­lu­tions. Its HS C9K, a twonee­dle cover stitch ma­chine, can per­form hemming of sleeves, breast pock­ets, front and back parts of T-shirts and polo shirts.

The ma­chine pro­vides high qual­ity and con­sis­tent hem width from the be­gin­ning to the end of the seam due to the op­ti­mum con­cep­tion of fea­tures such as hemming guide, special sewing parts, top con­veyor belt, right hand in­de­pen­dently driven side knife and thread chain cut­ting sys­tem. High pro­duc­tiv­ity is achieved through the quick and per­ma­nent load­ing of the automat and prac­ti­cally un­in­ter­rupted sewing with max­i­mum sewing speed.

Fur­ther, fully au­to­matic sewing cy­cle is achieved be­cause of the con­veyor belts in­te­grated in the ta­ble and stacker, re­sult­ing in re­duced train­ing time of the oper­a­tor. More­over, mov­able frame with height ad­just­ment for er­gonomic work­ing eases ser­vice. Flex­i­ble up­grades of the mod­u­lar automat is pos­si­ble in the ma­chine as it is sup­ported by the high-tech and ef­fi­cient elec­tron­ics.

The pro­duc­tiv­ity of the ma­chine is 1,375 sleeves per hour.

Juki MF7500

Yam­ato VG2700-8

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