INTERLINING SOLUTIONS TO CONSIDER IN SHIRT MANUFACTURING
Interlining, as one the most important trims, and fusing, as one of the most important operations done in a shirt, fulfil both the aesthetic and functional purpose of men’s shirts. However, the apparel industry is still overlooking these two processes despite knowing that choosing the right type of interlining and fusing method can do wonders in achieving both these parameters. In the previous three articles dedicated to shirt manufacturing, Team StitchWorld talked about the various aspects of shirt manufacturing where we discussed about the ways a shirt is manufactured, the technical details of shirt manufacturing and the important features to consider while making a shirt. In this fourth article of the shirt series, we will discuss about interlining and its use in shirt manufacturing.
Interlining is anything that is used between two fabrics to give a more firm and structured look to the garment. These are used in the detailed area of the garment, such as the front of the coat, collar, cuff and pocket flaps and further help the component of the garment with extra-wearing stress, such as neckline, pockets, waistband and buttons, to retain the shape. There are two ways of using interlining: sew or fuse. Sewn interlinings are generally stitched between two layers of the fabric, whereas the fusible interlinings are bonded to the fabric using heat and pressure. An interlining, when not used correctly, results in a number of problems such as bubbling (localised delamination), strike back (glue penetrates back through the interlining) and strike through (glue penetrates through the fabric and comes to the face side).
Therefore, choosing the right type of interlining from the different options available in the market is very important and at the same time can be a tedious task. The interlining properties should match with the property of fabric in the garment to avoid any of the above mentioned faults, for example, both the garment and the interlining should have the same shrinkage level, if not then the inner fabric may shrink more than the outer fabric and vice versa. This may further result in sizing problem as the finished garment will be smaller than it was planned. It also leads to the formation of puckered seam.
Classic Dress Shirts – More stiffness required
The classic dress shirt with more stiff and comfortable collar is the next big upcoming trend. To maintain the stiffness and stability of the collar, one should use hard interlining made up of 100 per cent cotton. Stiffness of the cotton interlining does not let it get easily distorted while being worn or cleaned by the wearer. Thereby, it exerts maximum control on shrinkage and shape retention. The lightweight cotton fusible interlining with soft touch is the perfect solution to achieve the aesthetic requirement and the stretch for the collar patch keeps the softness intact with perfect resilience. Another solution is using the interlining made from natural fibres (such as wool, silk and veg), but these kinds of interlinings are not very well known for their soft handle and feel. However, with rapidly evolving innovations, it has become possible to use different weaves like broken twill or fabric.
The promising brands for cotton interlinings are Freudenberg, Wendler and Talco. The interlining has to be fused with the shirt collar patch to obtain the desired output. The correct fusing option includes the right amount of pressure, heat and temperature to be fused. The machines that can be used for this purpose should come with exit belt, return belt or stacker devices for better quality of fusing processes. Further, the machines should be selected keeping the cooling system in mind as a cooling system with an illuminated area helps in positioning the interlining.
Sewing Interlining in a collar band The interlining properties should match with the property of fabric in the garment to avoid any faults. For example, both the garment and the interlining should have the same shrinkage level, if not then the inner fabric may shrink more than the outer fabric and vice versa.