Cheddar cheese row chef named an ‘immortal’ of French cuisine
Paris: A French celebrity chef who is suing the Michelin guide for suggesting he used cheddar cheese in a souffle was named as one of the 10 immortals of haute cuisine by the rival Gault & Millau guide.
Marc Veyrat was on Monday given a permanent place in the new academy of the “Golden Toque” alongside Guy Savoy, Alain Passard, Alain Ducasse and other legends of French cuisine.
The news was seen as a swipe at its arch rival Michelin, who Veyrat accused of “dishonouring” him by stripping him of his coveted third star in January.
The chef — a larger than life figure instantly recognisable for his widebrimmed black Savoyard
hat and dark glasses — is taking the guide to court later this month to try to force Michelin to hand over its inspectors’ notes.
Gault & Millau announced its new academy featuring the 10 pillars of French cooking as it named Arnaud Donckele as its chef of the year.
They described his cooking at La Vague d’Or restaurant in the chic French Riviera resort of Saint Tropez as poetry on a plate. While the prize is usually given to emerging chefs, the 42-year-old is already a big name, holding the maximum three Michelin stars.
“Even though he is extremely well known, he merits further praise,” Gault & Millau chief Jacques Bally told AFP.
Bally said that in a divided and splintered culinary world “with Arnaud Donckele you will find the essence of taste that everyone can agree on.” Donckele, who is set to open Le Cheval Blanc restaurant in Paris next year, said that his was designed to please everyone. Famous for his exquisite reductions and sauces, Donckele’s signature dish was inspired by a sandwich that a fisherman once gave him. — AFP