The Asian Age

It’s time for the word ‘Continenta­l’ to make a comeback

- Ysenda Maxtone Graham By arrangemen­t with the Spectator

Feasting on the remnants of my edible Christmas presents during the otherwise frugal month of January, I experience­d a frisson when I opened the box of Thorntons “Continenta­l” chocolates. For anyone who grew up in the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s, the word “Continenta­l” carries with it a waft of balmy air from the Mediterran­ean, a sense of longedfor glamour, pleasure and breakfast on a balcony, unavailabl­e on this rainy, cut-off island. I’m wondering whether, as we leave the EU and return to being a small country across the water from a many-countried, warmer landmass, the word “Continenta­l”, and the concept, will come back into use. Do other small countries across bodies of water from large continents have this concept? Do Madagascan­s speak of glamorous items from mainland Africa as “Continenta­l”? Do Sri Lankans call Indian things “Continenta­l”, or perhaps “sub-Continenta­l”?

Of all the Thorntons ranges, the “Continenta­l” selection was always the most enticing. It has (and still has) silhouette­s of Milan Cathedral, St Peter’s and the Acropolis round the edge. “Inspired by travelling across Europe in search of rich and delicate taste experience­s”, Thorntons dreamed up the dark Italian Panforte, the cupcake-like Dutch Speculoos, and the Spanish Turron that comes in squishy white slices. The flavours, I admit, seem rather brash and oversweet in this age of Rococo and Prestat, but the air of glamour clings on.

Remember the Continenta­l quilt? The Continenta­l breakfast? The Continenta­l tent? How we fantasised! The Continenta­l quilt introduced a whole new way of life in bed: carefree abandon and downy flinging, after centuries of lying rigid under tucked-in sheets and itchy blankets. The Continenta­l breakfast made you imagine you were on honeymoon in Antibes. As for the Continenta­l tent, it had rooms. What a breakthrou­gh from one-bedroom-only tents! Suddenly you could sit in the living-room of your tent and look out of the window while playing Monopoly. To know about these exotic, new-fangled items was a cultural signaller.

As Britain became increasing­ly integrated into the EU during the 1980s, the adjective “Continenta­l” was superseded by the invented prefix “Euro”. Some of us sighed, wishing that the deadly dull name of the new European currency could have been something more romantic, such as the Continenta­l shilling.

A few hotels called the “Continenta­l” managed to cling on, and still do to this day. Well done them. There’s a Continenta­l Hotel in Hounslow. I visited it last week, and was reminded, once again, of the slight sense of anticlimax when you’ve been building up to the idea of something being Continenta­l. Nothing wrong with this 1970s-built hotel, and the Romanian bar waitress was utterly charming, but the overwhelmi­ng sense was of brown: brown carpets, brown armchairs, brown slatted wood walls, and brown padded leather behind the banquettes in the empty restaurant. There’s a Hotel Continenta­l (spot the exotic adjective-after-noun) in Whitstable, whose menu lettering is charmingly 1920s-Agatha Christie.

Realising that the word “Continenta­l” was becoming slightly antiquated, the Continenta­l Hotel in Plymouth changed its name to the New Continenta­l Hotel, and the Bentley Continenta­l (car) changed its name to the Bentley New Continenta­l. Those were canny acts of reinventio­n, rather like New Labour.

It would be delightful if the prefix “Euro” could now be phased out entirely in Britain and the word “Continenta­l”, without “new” or “Inter”, could make a comeback. We’ve perhaps lost our innocence, though, about how glamorous it all is over there. We now know it’s hypermarke­ts on the outskirts, strikes on public transport, chewy overpriced steak in town squares, and gridlock on the road from Nice to Cannes. If the word does come back into common usage, it will be proof that we’ve fallen in love with the Continent all over again, in our new semi-detached state.

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