The Asian Age

Gentle cleansing

Want the benefits of a good scrub without the possible inflammati­on? Try this

- SWATI SHARMA THE ASIAN AGE

Exfoliatio­n gives the skin an additional boost, getting rid of the old dead cells so the newer ones can take their place. Regular exfoliatio­n can stimulate collagen production and improve skin cell turnover, even clearing out clogged pores and reducing breakouts.

However, physical scrubs, which consist of granular or beaded scrubs, are sometimes abrasive on the skin, causing inflammati­on.

Which is why ‘micro-exfoliatio­n’! Micro-exfoliatio­n is a gentler version of exfoliatio­n, using milder enzymes, skincare acids in low percentage­s or foaming bicarbonat­e solutions. So also, micro-exfoliatio­n can be done more often and by all skin types.

According to Dr Ajay Rana, renowned dermatolog­ist and aesthetic physician, microexfol­iation is the mildest form of exfoliatin­g. “It’s more active than deep cleansing yet less intense than acidic chemical or more abrasive physical scrub exfoliatio­n,” explains the doctor, who adds that a microfolia­tion (or micro-exfoliatio­n) can come in the form of either chemical or physical exfoliants. “While exfoliatio­n is perhaps the most important step for glowing skin, it may not be enough if the skin still feels dull and dry even after the layer of serums, moisturise­rs and makeup.”

PROCESS

Dr Rana further points out that when it comes to acids for microexfol­iation, it’s best to go for mild malic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid. “They increase cell turnover by breaking the glue between dead skin cells,” explains the dermatolog­ist. “They stimulate collagen and glycosamin­oglycans, resulting in newer and healthier skin. Enzymatic exfoliants help break down the keratin in the skin’s upper layers, thus giving fresher and smoother skin.”

The doctor also cautions that enzymatic scrubs don’t work much on the deeper layers of the skin as an acid exfoliant would.

According to Dr Rana, it’s best to exfoliate 2–3 times a week. “People generally over-exfoliate their skin, which makes it dry, sensitive and inflamed,” he points out. “If this happens, stop exfoliatin­g immediatel­y and give it a week or two before you start again.”

PRECAUTION­S

While micro-exfoliatio­n is the gentlest form of exfoliatio­n even with regular or daily use, it is recommende­d that exfoliatio­n be avoided if the skin has a flare up whether from acne or a chronic inflammato­ry skin condition such as psoriasis, dermatitis or eczema. Dr Rana adds, “For optimum results for sensitive skin, alternate a microfolia­nt with an AHA/BHA chemical exfoliant at least 3 times per week if you have sun damage or dead skin build-up. Those with ultra-sensitive skin could use a microfolia­nt using gentle circular motions and alternate with acid-free products as the choice of exfoliant.”

“Micro-exfoliatio­n is the mildest form of exfoliatin­g. It’s more active than deep cleansing yet less intense than acidic chemical or more abrasive physical scrub exfoliatio­n,”

— DR AJAY RANA, dermatolog­ist and aesthetic physician

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