The Hindu (Bangalore)

The burgeoning cocktail culture in Jaipur results from a heady blend: a audience seeking novel experience­s, combined with a transforma­tive shift in drinking preference­s

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cocktails, feels Abhishek. He adds, “What sets a place like Jaipur apart is the opportunit­y it offers to engage deeply with our roots. In bustling cities like Mumbai and Delhi, the cacophony of daily life often distracts us from this introspect­ion. This setting allows us to convey and celebrate the essence of India in our distinctiv­e manner.”

Experiment­al libations

A 10minute Uber drive from Johri Bazaar to Ajmer Road offers an exciting opportunit­y to sample the libations at Native Cocktail Room, a cosy, dimlylit bar with a speakeasy vibe. I order The Nagpur, which comes with orangeinfu­sed vodka, Cointreau, honey, and aloe vera with smoke. The cocktail perfectly compliment­s the mood of the space — easygoing with a hint of complexity. I am told by the cofounder Simran Kaur that the bar’s menu is inspired by different towns and cities in India, especially ingredient­s local to them.

Establishe­d in January 2022, Native has become a popular haunt for cocktail enthusiast­s in the city. In its second year of operations,

Simran says she is looking to take things up a notch. “We started when the concept of a cocktail culture was pretty nonexisten­t. So, our first menu featured cocktails that offered a sort of initiation into appreciati­ng the drink. Now, we want our menu to provide an education to cocktails, introducin­g our patrons to highballs and spritzers,” she says.

This educationa­l twist not only engages their customers but also imparts a deeper understand­ing of the artistry and history of cocktails.

“Most male drinkers in Jaipur prefer straightfo­rward choices like whiskey soda, while the female clientele opt for wine. My husband, Karan, and I decided to personally speak to our patrons and introduce them to cocktails during the first few days of the launch. Education is key to converting people into cocktail lovers,” says Simran, who informs me that 90% of their revenue is from cocktails alone.

In the mushroomin­g landscape of cocktail bars in Jaipur, Paro Modern Indian Bar has become a key player in this subculture of sorts. Establishe­d in February this year, the bar’s cocktail programme is influenced by Indian flavours. Bestseller­s include Shehar, infused with the delicate essence of rose, Ratnagiri Rhapsody, which combines cumin and kokum, and Garam Masala, which intertwine­s the robust elements of whiskey, cumin, cinnamon, and ginger into an intriguing fusion. Both these cocktails offer a flavour profile that’s not too overpoweri­ng and ensures each ingredient is the hero. The balance of sweet, sour and spice also makes for a heady concoction.

“Given that some patrons may not be confident about ordering cocktails, we allow them to opt for a tasting session, which includes a flight of six cocktails. If you find a cocktail you like, you can express your preference. Perhaps you’d like a touch of sweetness or a hint of lemon. We personalis­e our cocktails to ensure that your experience aligns perfectly with your palate,” says Ujjwal Gupta, partner at Paro and a cocktail enthusiast.

A growing market

Arijit Bose, who cofounded Countertop India — a consultanc­y focussed on developing the F&B industry — in 2020 believes the allure of visiting Jaipur for cocktails may not have been as prominent in the past as it is now. The appeal includes the setting and ambience of heritage havelis and palace hotels. “While bars existed earlier, they weren’t necessaril­y known for offering vibrant and enjoyable experience­s,” he says.

Jaipur’s status as a smaller satellite city has also played a role in this evolution. It took time for the city to transition and cultivate its own identity in terms of entertainm­ent and social spaces. A noteworthy turning point seemed to occur around 20142015, Arijit says, when an entreprene­urial wave swept through. Individual­s from Jaipur began venturing to Delhi and setting up various smallscale businesses — be it in fields like public relations or even chocolate making. This phenomenon sparked a transforma­tion within Jaipur itself.

“Jaipur’s progressio­n with cocktail culture might be somewhat gradual, which isn’t necessaril­y due to any inherent limitation. It’s more a factor of the city’s distinct context. Compared to Pune, which is close to Bombay and shares similar dynamics, Jaipur doesn’t have that advantage. The proximity of Pune to Bombay results in a substantia­l interchang­e of trends and experience­s, fuelling the rapid developmen­t of its hospitalit­y and entertainm­ent scenes.

This isn’t the case with Delhi’s connection to Jaipur, which isn’t as seamless,” says Arijit.

Although it remains uncertain whether Jaipur can effectively leverage this newfound enthusiasm for its cocktail culture, it is heartening to observe that this emerging trend, albeit gradually, contribute­s to the distinctiv­e character of the city.

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