Embracing the feminine

Chamayavilakku, a festival in Kollam district of Kerala, is a flamboyant display of sartorial creativity where men deck up in women’s clothes, complete with jewellery and accessories

◣ thulasidas.pv@thehindu.co.in

On the 10th and 11th of the Malayalam month of Meenam (midMarch to midApril), thousands of men dressed as women throng the Kottankulangara Sri Bhagavathy Temple in Kollam for its annual festival, Chamayavilakku. As per tradition, during the twoday celebration, men line up from the temple gate for the ceremonial Ezhunnallathu (procession) around 2 a.m., holding lamps with five wicks to seek the blessings of the presiding deity, goddess Durga.

This genderbending festival is a flamboyant display of sartorial creativity. Men deck up in women’s clothes, complete with jewellery and accessories. Every year, several studios and green rooms mushroom near the temple to help male devotees transform into women.

On both days of the festival, the same rituals are followed. This tradition goes back to the temple’s legend, according to which when some cowherds attempted to smash a coconut with a stone and it began to bleed. Astrologers discovered that the stone held Vanadurga’s divine force, and they instructed the local people to erect a shrine around it. At the time, girls performed pujas in the temple. The cowherds therefore dressed as girls to perform the temple’s initial pujas. Boys below the age of 10 also dress up as girls for Kakkavilakku, a part of the Chamayavilakku festival, but held during the day.

Over the years, Chamayavilakku has acquired a special significance for the transgender community in Kerala, which attends the festival in large numbers. ◣

Sacred flame: A boy with a ceremonial lamp at the Kottankulangara Bhagavathy Temple in Kollam, Kerala, on March 24.

Gracious look: Men attired in sarees and decked in jewellery participate in the rituals and procession.

Getting ready: Family members help a boy get dressed before going to offer prayers at the temple.

Final touches: Boys get to wear lipstick and rouge for the ceremony.

Peace and poise: It is believed that the feminine touch propitiates the Goddess Bhagavathy and brings her blessings to all.

Floral adornment: Apart from jewellery, strands of flowers are also part of the finery worn by the male devotees.

Patient prayer: Many families come together to mark the sacred occasion.

Lighter moments: The festival procession is older than any pride march.

Devotional fervour: The traditional five-wick lamp is an important part of the festival.