Homemade haleem warming up stomachs and souls this Ramzan
Cooks in the city who began preparing haleem at home during the COVID19 pandemic are continuing their small businesses as the demand for premium quality ingredients and hygiene peaks
Ramzan brings a multitude of culinary delights, with haleem reigning as the city’s mostloved delicacy. The dish is traditionally prepared by expert chefs in large utensils placed on earthen ovens in restaurants and roadside stalls dotting the city.
Over the past few years, catalysed by the onset of the COVID19 pandemic and the consequent shutting down of restaurants, women from across the city began preparing haleem in their kitchens, mainstreaming ‘homemade haleem’.
“Homemade haleem offers a healthier alternative to the one prepared in bulk at restaurants. In the Ramzan rush, the quality of ingredients and hygiene is compromised as big restaurants focus more on raking in profits,” says Maqsood Khan, a Begumpet resident who has been purchasing the dish from homemakers SB Haleem and Taj Caterers for years.
Known to be timeconsuming and arduous, the preparation of haleem is widely considered a man’s job. In the bylanes of Old City, groups of men pounding wheat and meat together in large vessels is a common sight during Ramzan. However, for Kauser Merchant, who runs Koshe Catered Affairs, preparing haleem while fasting is a labour of love despite the cumbersome process.
“I have been making haleem from home for 56 years. The motivation stemmed from my passion for cooking and the desire to share the authentic flavours of haleem with others. I noticed a dip in the quality of ingredients in the market for haleem, and I wanted to offer something premium to my community,” she says.
Similarly, for Vijaya Lakshmi, making Haleem from home was driven by her and her daughter, Seshasri Reddy’s passion for cooking. Together they are the face of High On Haleem. “My daughter loves haleem and it wasn’t available during COVID, so I made it myself. Overnight it turned into a business and our first order itself was about 500 boxes,” she says.
High demand
With social media and a dozen delivery apps, the demand for homemade haleem soared this year.
“We make around 150200 kgs of haleem per day. Some customers have travelled 150 km for our haleem. There are also customers from Bangalore and Chennai, where shipping cost is double the haleem cost. Considering the high demand, we have hired fulltime delivery boys this season,” says Ms. Reddy.
Homemade haleem also evokes a sense of nostalgia that comes with generational recipes. “I use a traditional recipe handed down through generations, incorporating highquality ingredients such as wheat, meat, lentils, spices, and herbs,” says Merchant, who sells about 200 kg during Ramzan.
“While competition with mainstream restaurants is fierce, I find that my niche as a home chef provides a more personalised experience,” she adds.
“Women making haleem from home this Ramzan season is both reclaiming and dismantling the twin stereotypes that women belong in the kitchen versus only men can go through the challenging task of making haleem,” says home chef Urmi Chakraborty from Ameerpet, who has been making haleem and several other Hyderabadi dishes for the past 15 years.
Homemade haleem offers a healthier alternative to the one prepared in bulk at restaurants. MAQSOOD KHAN, A customer