The unmasking: how make up and skin care products impact children
“She runs straight to the skin care aisle now instead of the snacks or toys section when we visit a mall. She’s just 12 and looks for “antiageing” labelling on creams”, says a concerned mother about her daughter. On social media, you will encounter a lot of content on skincare, skincare routine for children and teens, routine for glowing skin, skin whitening regimes... But what is the actual risk that children bear? Do these products cause more harm to children than they do to adults? Will exposure to make up early have a long lasting impact on children? These are some of the questions that will have to be answered before any regulation is contemplated.
For instance, in a survey done in the U.S., researchers discovered that up to 70% of children had used Children’s Makeup and Body Products. The results of the survey were published in a paper ‘Usage of Children’s Makeup and Body Products in the United States and Implications for Childhood Environmental Exposures’, in the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, last year. The authors Eleanor Medley et al noted that children are particularly vulnerable to adverse health risks associated with makeup and body products. Behavioural patterns such as handtomouth activity may increase exposure to products through ingestion. Additionally, children’s small body size, rapid growth rate, developing tissues and organs, and immature immune systems make them biologically susceptible to toxicants
The recent uptick in skincare product usage among children is likely a development driven by a complex interplay of marketing, social media influence, and changing societal norms. A child’s skin is thinner, more delicate, and the natural moisturising factor and skin lipid production are reduced compared with adult skin, making it more susceptible to irritation and the effects of UV radiation. Additionally, the skin barrier in children is not as fully developed, which can lead to increased sensitivity to irritants and allergens. This fundamental difference necessitates a gentler approach to skincare for children. If at all it must be used, the focus should be on mild products designed to protect and maintain their skin’s natural balance.
Regulation is critical
Ramesh Bhat, senior dermatologist and research head at Father Muller Medical College in Mangalore, is deeply concerned by unsupervised use of cosmeceuticals by children and adolescents. “There is a craze among teens to use skin lightening creams which contain steroids and hydroquinone, (Schedule H drugs) and peeling agents. These substances can cause severe irritant reactions and profound damage to the sensitive skin of children.” Dr. Bhat emphasises regulatory measures: “Due to the efforts of the Indian Association of Dermatologists, Venereologists and Leprologists (IADVL), overthecounter sales of fairness creams containing steroids has been restricted since 2018. Similarly, regulation to protect children from skincare products that are inappropriate for their age is crucial.”
Sahana Srinivas, consultant pediatric dermatologist at the Indira Gandhi Institute of Child Health, Bangalore, warns against the misdirected concerns of parents influenced by social media. “Often, parents of children as young as 10 or 12 years ask us for skincare routines, concerned about tanning and believing they need sunscreen or vitamin C for their children,” she says. “Tanning is a protective response to UV rays. In our tropical climate, the pursuit of fairness, especially for children, should not be a priority.”
Dr. Bhat warns against assumptions that could lead to inadvertent harm, for instance that anything labelled herbal is safe to use. “The belief that ‘natural’ means ‘safe’ is particularly dangerous in the context of skincare for children,” he cautions. “Natural ingredients can still cause skin irritation and sensitivity to sunlight. Parents must carefully evaluate these products, always in consultation with dermatologists, to ensure they are truly safe for their children. The promotions for such products claim the benefits of “natural” or “herbal” products without scientific backing, misleading viewers about their efficacy and safety, but it is important for parents to check if the product is safe first.
Flawed standard
There is a deep psychological angle to this as well. As long as a flawless, blemishfree complexion is held up as the ideal standard, children will aspire to it. It imposes unrealistic expectations on the young, influencing their selfesteem and body image. While some brands are conscious of this bias and try to make amends, by and large, the industry remains idealistic and exacting, holding up appearances over all else.
The growth of the children’s cosmetics market, expected to reach approximately $1.80 billion by 2030, reflects the effectiveness of these strategies. However, the ethical implications of targeting young consumers, who may not fully understand the longterm effects of these products on their skin and selfesteem, warrant scrutiny. Amid the influx of information and products, parents find themselves in a challenging position.
As parents navigate the skincare maze for their children, the key is to prioritise safety, simplicity, and skin health. Dr Srinivas advocates a return to basics when it comes to children’s skincare. “I always emphasise the importance of a healthy diet, cleansing, and a
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good moisturiser used two to three times a day. Most importantly, a positive attitude is the best skincare routine,” she advises. For child performers, skincare is a functional necessity to counteract the effects of heavy stage makeup. Dr Srinivas recommends a gentle cleanser to thoroughly remove makeup and fragrancefree moisturisers to rehydrate the skin. The goal is to protect the integrity of their young skin, preventing immediate irritation and longterm damage.
By prioritising gentle care, hydration, and protection from environmental factors, dermatologists suggest that it is possible to support the skin’s functions from a young age, fostering a healthy relationship with skincare that values function over appearance.
(Dr. Monisha Madhumitha is a dermatologist passionate about exploring the ethical dimensions of medicine and combating misinformation. mail.monisha.m@gmail.com) for ‘Science’, please write to science@thehindu.co.in with the subject ‘Daily page’