Prawn with a twist of sweet mango
Executive chef Soju Philip interprets staple dishes in unexpected ways at Ramada Cochin’s revamped seafood speciality restaurant, Pearlspot
aking seafood differently in Kochi, which has options galore, can be challenging. From the regular to the upmarket meals places and the fivestar hotels, there is something for every pocket and palate. It was reason enough for Soju Philip, executive chef, Ramada Cochin, to bring a different kind of flavour to the table at Ramada’s seafood speciality restaurant, Pearlspot.
When it was time to reopen the revamped Pearlspot, he chose to extend the seafood menu to include specials from the Konkan and Coromandel coasts apart from the south Malabar coast. “We wanted the menu to have seafood prepared in a way that is different from the usual,” says Chef Soju.
And to that end, Chef Soju has largely succeeded. He gives some of South Indian coastal staples such as crab, squid, prawns, pomfret, King fish and Kerala’s own pearl spot a fresh take. Chef Soju is the author of the travelogueand cookbook Recipes on Ripples, which won an award (2019) in the local foods category at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.
The restaurant, under a transparent fibre glass roof, by the bobbing waters of the Vembanad Lake,
Mis picturesque. Open from 7pm to 11pm, it is perfect for an evening out.
As Chef Soju takes us through the menu, the starters arrive — kanava varuval and Karwari fried fish. While the squid rings are spicy, with a coating of spices with red chilli standing out, the Karwari fried fish is simple with a crisp, semolina coating. It is crunchy and the king fish, fresh, works well with the accompanying tangy and sweet dip made of red chilli, dates, tomato and coconut vinegar. The squid is slightly chewy, but the flavour makes up for it.
The starters perk up expectations and right on cue arrives konju (prawn) rassalam.
It is unlike most prawn dishes, the ripe, sweet mango and coconut sauce is a winning combination. A sweet twist to the usual spice laden or blandish grill. “Rassalam literally means sweet mango. So the dish is everything that comes with it and the sweetness of our childhood memories,” says the chef. Served with kallappam and salad, it is a filling meal. Those who are not fans of prawns or are allergic to shellfish can opt for
barramundi (kalanchi rassalam).
What is a seafood restaurant in Kochi if it does not serve karimeen (pearlspot)? Kanjirottu karimeen is found only in the waters of the Kanjirottu lake, one of the arms of Kollam’s Ashtamudi Lake. Also called Kanjirottu karimeen, the slowfried fish is slathered in a
marinade of green peppercorn, curry leaves, and green chilli, and smothered in coconut milk. “The fish comes from Kanjirottu daily, it is a speciality and not easy to find in large quantities.” We sample pacha pollicha avoli, pomfret marinated with green herbs and spices, wrapped in banana leaf and slowcooked. The succulent fish is a musttry for those who like the concept of meen pollichathu.
And finally there is Kandapanadan konchu roast, the chef’s ode to his hometown near Adoor, prepared in a simple marinade of shallots and spices. Usually it is served with appam, but we had with nool parotta.
The menu, with 25 odd items, includes the large vanchikkaran virunnu — a platter of masala grilled fish, squid, prawns accompanied by a salad. There is a variety of crab too the Goan recheado and caldinho, Mangalorean crab sukka, Madras eral fry, Chettinad kadamba masala, nandu milagu pirattal among others. “I have tried to keep the flavours subtle — not so heavy on spices and masala that you can barely taste the fish or the meat.”
The one dish that is a regular is the Alleppey fish curry, since “people ask for it.” There is an international section too. The dishes are served with rice, appam, kallapaam, or nool paratha.
Open from 7pm to 11pm. ₹2,500 plus taxes for two.