Kerala’s iftar platter may have grown more elaborate over the years, but it is the nostalgiaevoking traditional fare that takes centrestage

Mahajabeen Ansar’s ancestors came to Kochi from Kutch, a couple of centuries ago, in the early 1800s. Over the 200 years of living here, assimilating and adapting, the Kochi’s Kutchi Memon community’s food has come to bear Kerala influences. “Although the food we have after roza (Ramzan fasting) has more or less stayed the same, we now have fried fare like pazham pori (banana fritters) and bhajjias too. We make nombu kanji (rice gruel) and sometimes even thari kanji, though not very often,” the retired school teacher explains the iftar fare prepared in homes of those from the community.

She reminisces how in the past iftar was an occasion for the whole family to get together and catch up. “There were more people, families were larger, especially since most were joint. The spread also used to be more lavish. ” Times may have changed, families become smaller, but she sticks to food cooked traditionally during Ramzan.

Badam (almond) sherbet follows dates, the first food eaten to break the fast. “It is made with black khuskhus and stored for a few days. It is extremely cooling, which is beneficial as we fast during the warm months. Besides fruits, almond shahi phirni and falooda with lots of dry fruits, samosas and kebabs are also prepared,” the Thoppumpady native adds. Kebabs, she clarifies, are not the usual circular, flat ones or cylindrical ones but deepfried round meatballs.

A full dinner that follows

While these are had to break the fast after maghrib prayers, a more elaborate, fuller dinner follows later in the night. Making up this meal is usually kheema paratha, paya saag (saag is curry), curry made of mutton trotters, or kebab saag, meatballs cooked in coconut milk, which is had with either rice or roti.

“Then there is akkini, a version of pulao made of mutton, chana dal and spices. Muthiya is also important. These are rice dumplings in a gravy of either chicken or mutton,” Mahajabeen, 63, says.

Nombuthura (breaking the fast) was a simple affair, with foods that aided digestion and rejuvenated the body after a day’s fasting. Consuming dates has a spiritual significance and is a must for those fasting. Gruel made of either rice or broken wheat and a combination of ingredients was integral to iftar.

The meals and the ingredients that go into them are such that fasting does not take a toll on the body. Fruits and juices are gentle on a system that has abstained from food the whole day. The heavier food comes later.

Thari kanji to break the fast

“We break fast with a date and water followed by thari kanji (a sweet gruel made of broken wheat, milk, sugar