A fatal mistake often made in Indian kitchens

IN TRADITIONAL Indian texts like Ayurveda, desi ghee has been prized for its health-promoting and healing properties. However, the fear of cholesterol and saturated fat had virtually driven this most revered cooking ingredient out of Indian kitchens. While concerns about oils and fats are justified both with respect to their amounts and types, simplistic conclusions drawn on research hypothesis can be hasty and even dangerous.

Condemning desi ghee as a culprit for blocking arteries and replacing it with refined hydrogenated vegetable oils was a fatal mistake. The negative impression of desi ghee is because of several factors including an exaggerated fear of cholesterol. A closer look reveals that such a negative view about this highly nourishing food does not stand the test of scientific logic.

Ghee is produced by heating butter. Heating evaporates water present in the latter. As the temperature continues to rise, the initial white sediment of milk protein and salt turns brown. This imparts an irresistible nutty flavour to ghee. Those who have once tasted this flavour swear by it. Since ghee is derived from milk, it is essentially an animal product. Therefore, it contains a certain amount of saturated fat and cholesterol.

Although saturated fats are known to have a cholesterol raising effect, not all have the same effect. In desi ghee, only a few fatty acids have the cholesterol raising effect. Desi ghee is only 65 per cent saturated. As much as 32 per cent fat in desi ghee is MUFA (mono-unsaturated fatty acids). MUFA is a highly desirable form of dietary fat — the kind that olive oil is rich in. It is perhaps even more desirable than PUFA (poly-unsaturated fatty acids). Desi ghee scores over many Pufa-rich oils like sunflower, safflower, corn, and cottonseed oils, whose MUFA content is dismally poor.

Oils/ghee are in the range of 90-95 per cent fat. All those who thought it is higher in calories or fat compared to oils should be relieved to know that there is no significant difference in calorie values. However, an excessive amount of desi ghee, like any other fat, is clearly undesirable due to its calorie density.

Ghee is also rich in Vitamin A, Vitamin D and riboflavin as well as minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium. Vitamin A helps in maintaining good vision, healthy glowing skin and acts as an important antioxidant too. Vitamin D, Calcium, Magnesium and Phosphorus form important constituents of the skeletal structure and also play important roles in other physiological functions like nerve conduction, blood-clotting etc. Potassium is needed to maintain the delicate fluid and electrolyte balance within cells, to keep heartbeat regular and to maintain normal blood pressure.

Drawing conclusions from a few research findings in the west and applying them in larger contexts in India is not valid. It is important to analyse these to conduct our own research to formulate special guidelines for Indians, rather than simply applying western ones.

Also, no one cooking medium is ideal: a combination is the best. So, desi ghee as the sole cooking medium is not recommended. Rather, a blend with cold pressed/sesame, mustard and olive oil is desirable.

Author is a clinical nutritionist and founder of www.theweightmonitor.com and Whole Foods India