The Green Park pointer: Death of Test cricket is grossly exaggerated

TALES FROM KANPUR

ALL ROADS leading to the venue were dotted with banners and outlined by chalk powder. The security was ostensibly tight with more boots on the ground than one would normally expect. And then there were people, and more people -- rivers of humanity flowing towards a common destination. To the uninitiated, it might have appeared like the surroundings of a political maha rally. But it was something more lofty. At any rate, considerably less cynical. It was Test match Sunday at the Green Park stadium in Kanpur. An occasion to celebrate.

The phrase ‘Test cricket is dying’ is a common refrain these days. But one needed to be here on the fourth day of the first Test match between India and New Zealand to see the truth: the reports of the five-day format’s imminent demise are grossly exaggerated. Now any Green Park veteran will tell you Kanpur has traditionally attracted big crowds for Test cricket. So what’s the big deal, you may ask. However, the last Test match here was held in 2009 -- when IPL was still treading a nascent stage. It was a more innocent time and Test cricket still held sway.

Seven years later, India versus New Zealand would also be keenly followed by Test cricket fans as the BCCI consciously decided to take five-day cricket to smaller venues, including Indore, Rajkot, Dharamsala and Visakhapatnam. Kanpur was the perfect place to test it out. It has been a traditional five-day centre, and while it is Uttar Pradesh’s second biggest city, its character is distinctly small town.

A sizeable crowd had turned up here on the first three days, but on Sunday, Green Park (capacity: 33,000) was full to the brim, while hundreds of ‘Kanpuriyas’ were loitering about in the streets outside the stadium waiting land a stray pass or a ticket. Or simplysneakin. Theycameindifferentshapes and sizes, and belonged to all age and creed. There were sarkaari babus with their families and college students in Kohli T-shirts; there were young couples, and daughtersin-law accompanied by their mothers-inlaw -- the former wore the sari pallu over the head, the latter had their hair dyed in henna.

Most understood the game, but a few didn’t. And yet they came because on Sunday - which for most in a provincial Indian town is the only weekly off -- Green Park was the place to be. It was a great selfie opportunity, but for some it was also a status symbol. In that, they could later brag about how they got in because of their connections, to their neighbours. So while a majority of the spectators bought their tickets, many had their passes arranged by their ‘jijajis’ . Those who had none would still make it, for the Kanpuriyas are nothing if not ingenious.

A street-smart kid tagged along with a pass-holding “uncle”. Now one pass allows only one spectator, but there is a loophole: there is a provision for one re-entry. The “uncle” went in first. The pass came back to the kid, who followed suit. It helped their cause that the cops here are rather chilled out.

Inside the stadium, the atmosphere was boisterous. It was hot and humid in the extreme. Worse, a large part of the stands is uncovered, but that didn’t dampen their enthusiasm. With nothing but their kerchiefs between their heads and the harsh sun, they raised the proverbial roof as India put on an emphatic display with bat and ball. It was the lbw or caught-behind appeals that would elicit the best reaction. If they were against an Indian batsman, there would be a loud disapproving ‘hoooo’; if it was against a New Zealander there would be a louder demanding ‘hoooo’.

And never was it noisier than when Ravichandran Ashwin rapped Kane Williamson's pads. As the umpire’s finger went up, Green Park erupted, for Ashwin had completed 200 Test wickets. He would later say, the full house was a good sign for the game. “I mean generally, there are select venues around the country where you don't get crowds but predominantly we do get crowds in some of the major Test venues. For example Chennai and Bangalore fill up for every Test match and today Kanpur was also full. So it's a very, very good sign for Test cricket and it is also about the brand of cricket that we play to bring people back to the game. There is a bit of buzz and as you people write well, we're going to get more people coming back,” Ashwin later said.

The crowd went home having gotten their money’s worth -- or effort’s worth. With India on the cusp of a win, a big chunk will return tomorrow, bunking college and skipping work. Test cricket is not going anywhere soon. Not on the evidence of this Sunday in Kanpur.

With nothing but their kerchiefs between their heads and the harsh sun, they raised the proverbial roof as India put on an emphatic display with bat and ball.

PTI The packed stands were treated to some gloruius strokeplay from Jadeja.