What’s behind the craze for Korean creams?

While they are hydrating and organic, some of them may not suit our skin type or climate, say dermatologists

WHEN 26- YEAR- OLD Shreya Basu got addicted to K- dramas during the lockdown, she was surprised by the glowing, porcelain- smooth and taut skin of the actors. “Yet, when I compared their ages to mine, I found that they were much older than me. That’s when I got drawn to Korean skincare creams and serums. Now they keep my skin well- nourished, hydrated and plumped up at all times despite the daily assault of pollutants,” she says.

For 16- year- old Shivika Medda, a kojic acid- based cream has helped her be fuss- free during her basketball hour in school. “My sun spots have faded. I slap it on once in the morning, then later at night and my skin never dries out despite the harsh sun. Though the Korean skincare routine is elaborate, I have been using creams separately. They have a lasting effect on school days,” she adds. Both young women are the reason that Korean creams are a rage across the globe and have become the new blockbuster solution for a flawless skin. Today the market for Korean cosmetics, or K- beauty, as it is popularly called, is among the top five in the world and growing because the products rely on natural ingredients than chemical compounds and have a water- rich feel.

Question is whether this is a sales pitch or genuinely works on your skin?

WHY K- CREAMS ARE SEEN AS THE SKIN’S BEST FRIEND

There’s a simple science behind it. As Dr DM Mahajan, senior consultant, dermatology, Indraprastha Apollo Hospitals, New Delhi, explains, “Korean creams have been developed for skin health instead of skin whitening, tightening or superficial beauty. They act like any vitamin and mineral supplements you take. The outermost layer of our skin acts like a barrier against pollutants and microbes. These creams strengthen this barrier, using natural and eco- friendly ingredients as opposed to chemical- laden creams that rely on active ingredients like vitamin C, acids and retinols, all of which erode and strip the skin over time. K- creams hold off this corrosive effect and are more hydrating. In fact, they enhance the skin’s ability to retain water on the surface.”

Of course, Korean creams cannot do without active ingredients altogether. But they use them in limited amounts and strategically. “Each cream is customised for a certain skin condition rather than a one- sizefits- all formula. But generally, these contain more PHAS ( polyhydroxy acids), which exfoliate the skin gently without scooping in too deep unlike other acids. These creams are geared to stop the damage at the epidermal level itself and maintain its shielding properties. That’s why they have ceramides, which are lipid molecules that hold water, niacinamide, which is a vitamin that keeps skin pores oil and grime- free and hyaluronic acid, which binds water to the skin, plumping it up,” adds Dr Mahajan.

THE REAL DEAL

Undoubtedly, creams use derivatives of many natural ingredients. These use a lot of tree bark, shoots and roots. Ginseng slows down the loss of collagen with age, fermented rice controls oil production and acne while bamboo has silica, the building block of collagen. Centella Asiatica is anti- inflammatory, detoxifying and prevents acne breakouts, mugwort soothes rashes. Now snail excreta or mucin may sound revolting but it contains hyaluronic and glycolic acid which provide hydration. And a substance that bees make from trees to build hives — propolis — is an antiseptic, keeping fungal infections at bay.

“If you look at these ingredients, you will realise that each is about nourishing the skin that you are born with over a long- term. Each is geared to enhancing skin quality, not for changing the skin tone. Remember, the skin is the largest organ of our body and is the first indicator of our general health and well- being. So it needs to be cared for from that perspective. And the Korean makers understand that,” says Dr Mahajan. Also, while India has its own Ayurvedic traditions and herbs, the differentiator is the concentration of ingredients and most importantly, standardisation. “The entire Korean cosmetic industry insists on strict standards. We do have an array of herbal products but there is not a uniform protocol that manufacturers follow,” he adds.

IS K- BEAUTY FOR INDIANS?

Dr Rashmi Sharma, senior consultant dermatologist at Fortis, Vasant Kunj, tested some of these Korean products on herself. Few worked, others didn’t. “I reacted to snail mucin but mugwort worked. We must understand that Koreans are genetically blessed with the luminescent skin or glassy skin that everybody talks about. Besides, skincare for them is like any other health hygiene practice, say brushing your teeth, which they have grown up with. They follow 10 steps of both water and oil- based cleansing, exfoliating, toning, moisturising and sun- blocking with serums, creams and face- masks. Their external skin layer is already primed against intruders, so the creams have a better base to work on. We are neither genetically blessed, nor do we follow a skin hygiene routine,” she explains.

Once your skin has been exposed to chemical peels and creams, Korean products might not improve you dramatically. “Without a head- to- head clinical trial, it is difficult to assess the effectiveness of Korean creams on Indian skin. But yes, they are hydrating, their consistency is thin, so spreadability is good. These use kojic acid, which is produced by fungi and is good as a sun shield and for pigmentation. But none of them will whiten the skin as many users expect,” she says.

Also, the bombardment of Korean creams without knowing your existing skin type and texture can lead to problems. “I’ve had many patients come in with complaints of allergies and acne following the 10- step routine on their own. But if your skin has already been subjected to wear and tear, then this over- application does nothing for your pores. Nowadays, I am advising skin fasting, or non- application of creams for 10 days except a collagen- rich moisturiser. The skin is restored,” says Dr Sharma.

This is also the reason why the 10- step process of Korean creams may not work in extreme humid conditions. As Dr Reshma T Vishnani, aesthetic dermatologist at Kokilaben Dhirubhai Ambani Hospital, Mumbai, says, “The overlayering may just make you sweat more and clog up pores in Indian climatic conditions. Besides, we have oily skin anyway and it could do with breathing naturally a bit. Some individual creams may work but then always do a skin patch test to check for breakouts. Also Indians need targetted therapies. And when it comes to medicinal creams that are advised by dermatologists, ours are good enough.”

The question then is are we over- investing in Korean skin products? While some of them are affordable, others are not. Also, skin, like any other organ, requires as much of a lifestyle intervention. “In the end, let’s not forget that we need to eat clean, drink enough water, get sufficient sleep, exercise, and avoid excesses of smoking and drinking for our overall health and well- being. Given our environmental conditions, moisturising the skin regularly, wearing sunscreen and cleansing it before sleeping are enough to protect our skin,” says Dr Vishnani.

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