The Sunday Guardian

Tex-Mex: Textiles from south of Mexico at handloom show

- PREETI SINGH

The National Handicraft­s and Handlooms Museum, commonly known as National Crafts Museum, is one of the popular haunts for art lovers. This place displays art, crafts and textile items from various parts of India and other countries. With its rural setting, it aims to preserve cultural tradition and heritage of the country.

But it is in an internatio­nal context that the Crafts Museum is hosting Textiles of Chiapas, an exhibition that includes 44 pieces woven by indigenous women from southern Mexico.

This month-long exhibition features the works of indigenous communitie­s from the state of Chiapas, on the southern tip of Mexico. The display is part of the activities to commemorat­e Mexico’s 206th Day of Independen­ce, marked on 16 September.

“Mexicans must be proud of this heritage and the beautiful work of these women” said H.E. Melba Pria, Mexican Ambassador to India, who inaugurate­d the exhibition on 13 September. “India also has an outstandin­g textile tradition and we want Indian people to come and see these pieces, not only because of their beauty, but for them to realise the similariti­es between the cultural expression­s of Mexico and India.”

In the southern tip of Mexico, sharing borders with Guatemala, is the state of Chiapas, which has diverse geography. It is a state with magnificen­t traces of the Mayan and other important Mesoameric­an cultures. A great variety of textiles originate from this part of the world, with 12 ethnic groups living here, whose identity is recreated in the symbolism of their designs and continue to preserve their ancestor’s traditions and languages. The many varieties of textiles are due to different ethnic groups living in over 122 villages located here, making clothes according to the tradition, techniques, fashion and materials. Each region has its own traditiona­l dress, which locals wear in special celebratio­ns, religious ceremonies or family parties. Mexican indigenous roots are at the base of the identity of each village. This identity is created in the symbolism of the designs and ornaments.

The cultural richness of Mexico is characteri­sed by the kaleidosco­pe of colours reflected in the vast diversity in the form of dressing, de- pending on the region and occasion. To know about the clothing of Mexico is synonymous to learning a little more about different regions, culture and ethnic groups. Since ancient times, their attire is representa­tive of their identity, and of their relationsh­ip with nature.

The moment one enters the gallery space at the Crafts Museum, one finds colour- ful designs and patterns with unique colour combinatio­ns. Each Mexican region has its own traditiona­l dress, which displays their ancient heritage in colourful patterns. The dress defines the culture and tradition of the state of Chiapas. These dresses are always accompanie­d by different shawls, shoes, jewellery etc. The pictures displayed on the walls also reflect the spirit of Mexico as weaving and embroidery is a knowledge passed on from one generation to another. The interestin­g part of the exhibition is that the background of Chiapas culture and traditions are displayed for the visitors who wish to know how Mexican ethnic groups work on these designs.

The beauty of these textiles is that they are woven on backstrap looms and their fabrics are made of plant fibres or natural wool, dyed with vegetable colours or extracted minerals. Beautiful, colourful skirts are on display. These skirts are wrapped around and secured with a fagero or cloth belt. The abstract drawings and patterns in weaving and embroidery symbolise the language of dreams, desires, geology and transforma­tions of nature and cosmos.

The artisans have infused ancient learning in their designs, reaffirmin­g the deep roots despite centuries of colonial influences. This is reflected both in the making of textiles and in the meaning of their designs and embroideri­es. It also reflects the transcultu­ration, which has been incorporat­ed from the Spanish, the Arabs, the Asian and the African communitie­s among others.

Some of the designs in Textiles of Chiapas are even reminiscen­t of embroidery traditions of India like the Phulkari work of Punjab, the Kutchi embroidery of Gujarat or Kashmiri embroidery.

In a seamless blend of the unique creativity of 11 Chiapas communitie­s, the textiles featured in the exhibition give us a peek into the kaleidosco­pe of colours and traditions that the state of Chiapas harbours.

The exhibition is on till 13 October.

Hosted at the Crafts Museum in Delhi, Textiles of is a month-long exhibition where some 44 pieces woven by indigenous women from southern Mexico are being showcased.

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 ?? PHOTO: PREETI SINGH ?? Designs showcased at the Delhi exhibition; (top) weaving and embroidery artists from the state of
PHOTO: PREETI SINGH Designs showcased at the Delhi exhibition; (top) weaving and embroidery artists from the state of

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