Travel + Leisure - India & South Asia
ROYAL MANSION
Le Clarence
WHY DO I FEEL LIKE I’ve slipped on a princess’ tiara tonight? Why does this dinner at
Le Clarence have that feeling of occasion?
Is it because we are dining in a magnificent 19th-century Parisian mansion, restored by the finest of craftsmen under the immaculate supervision of its owner, HRH Prince Robert of Luxembourg? Or could it be the brilliant
Chef Christophe Pelé’s bespoke and bold, inspired and instinctive cuisine?
Just before dinner, Hélène Pietrini and I are ushered into the grand salon. Shimmering crystal chandeliers above, a soft antique carpet below, and objets d’art all around, I sink into an oversized couch by the fireplace for a pre-dinner drink. The mansion sprawls several floors, adorned with fragrant floral compositions, thick curtains, an antique backgammon table, and a splendid library.
We are led up a sweeping marble staircase into the main dining room, where time has stood still. Tapestries, plush flower-patterned carpets, artworks, and classic furniture—all handpicked from major auction houses and flea markets by the Prince of Luxembourg—hark back to the Age of Enlightenment.
It is here that our dinner officially begins. The meal is a celebration of the freshest seasonal bounty from land and sea. There is no menu. Each dish specially created for each guest,
guided by the moment or the chef’s instinct.
And each dish bursts with refreshing newness and surprise, yet through it, a deep respect for the fundamentals of French cuisine is palpable. “Cultivate tradition, while continuing to innovate,” is Chef Pelé’s motto.
His cuisine is precise, ethereal, and perfectly balanced. He coaxes unique flavours, presides over unusual marriages, and creates gems of inexplicable wizardry. Expect the unexpected— the tasting menu includes a flavourful ris de veau paired with tender langoustine. The ocean’s brine and breath are exquisitely captured in the white turbot, line-caught sea bass, fresh bottarga, and vegetarian masterpieces as well. Every now and then, the mellow note of almond butter, and the tenor of anchovy and caper chime in to make up a memorable orchestra. There’s also the intense, earthy umami, and a musky truffle high, which will have you taking joyful pauses between bites. For the sweetest of finales, the chef’s special chocolate soufflé is crowned with a thinly sliced truffle. Light as air! Is it any wonder that the restaurant was showered with Michelin stars within a year of its opening?
To enhance Chef Pelé’s masterly creations, the wine list offers a thousand prestigious or confidential references that illustrate the variety and formidable complexity of French winegrowing terroir. The Prince of Luxembourg also owns the Bordeaux wine-producing Château Haut-Brion (haut-brion.com), so precious vintages from the vineyards of Domaine Clarence Dillon and a handpicked selection of the finest Cru wines and spirits are offered here. Haut-Brion was best known to be John F Kennedy’s wine of choice. But it has a far older history. In 1660, the year that Charles II was restored as King of England, HautBrion was served at the king’s table—along with the masterpieces of Chef Marie-Antoine Carême, who was known as “the king of chefs and the chef of kings.” Is it any wonder that I feel particularly royal tonight? 31 Avenue Franklin Delano Roosevelt; le-clarence.paris