FEAST AHOY!

Brasserie Lutetia

RECENTLY, THE PULSE OF one of the grandest hotels on the Left Bank was revived. The historic Hotel Lutetia—with its undulating, wave-like façade—reopened after years of renovation. And fittingly, the three-Michelin star Mediterranean chef and master of seafood, Gérald Passédat anchored here to helm the Brasserie Lutetia. Here, I feast on the most unique maritime-inspired Mediterranean experience.

I’m riveted by the fascinating story of two 100-year-old establishments twinning in age and prowess. Hotel Lutetia, the first grand hotel of the Rive Gauche opened in 1910. Lutetia was the Romans’ name for Paris, as well as their motto for the city—fluctuat nec mergitur, or

‘[she] is rocked [by the waves], but does not sink’. Around the same time, in 1917 Marseille, Chef Gérald Passédat’s grandfather set up Le Petit Nice, a magnificent villa. Both Lutetia and Le

Petit Nice share a keen sense of hospitality and sophistication, and have served authors, artists, fashionistas, and cinema moguls. It is the third generation, Chef Gérald Passédat, who is now reestablishing Brasserie Lutetia’s old-world charm.

The briny sea breathes in the heart and soul of the signature Provençal seafood dishes. Chef Passédat’s traditional bouillabaisse is afloat with the freshest of seafood, which flavours the rich

saffron-infused stock. And the whole stuffed seabream is flambéed with pastis at our table. I cannot stop eating the lusciously marinated jaffa avocado in erotic union with mango, citrus, and caviar, while over 40 different organic wines call out to me. Plenty of hand-picked oysters, pistou soup, and red rice dot the table. I end with traditional millefeuilles and cakes. 45, boulevard Raspail; hotellutetia.com

Gerald Passedat of Brasserie Lutetia. Below: Charcuterie de Poisson.