Through the Lens

After the first wave of the pandemic, photographer ATIF AMIN embarked on a road trip to Munsiyari, followed by a trek to Khaliya Top, in Uttarakhand for a physically-distanced escape from the clutches of city life.

A photographer encounters ethereal landscapes on a road trip and trek in Uttarakhand.

MY FIRST EVER road trip happened last December. A friend accompanied me on a 1,200-kilometre motorcycle journey from Delhi to Munsiyari, a town that doubles as a great base for forays into the Kumaon hills. Nestled in the foothills of the mighty Himalayas, Kumaon is blessed with ethereal natural beauty, vast biodiversity, freshwater lakes, temples, and snow-clad mountains.

This trip was originally supposed to happen before ‘COVID-19’ entered common parlance. But we finally embarked on the journey after the first wave of the pandemic, in the hope that it would elevate our physical and mental wellness after months of isolation. Mindful of the new norms of travel, we tweaked our itinerary to include relatively offbeat places, in order to avoid crowds. We traded the popular towns of Kumaon for lesser-known places, choosing Bhowali over Nainital, Garur over Kausani or Almora, and Kapkot over the town of Bageshwar before reaching our final destination, Munsiyari. We encountered myriad obstacles and challenges on our motorbikes—streams, snow, haze, a forest fire, and of course, steep, treacherous roads. It was the right mix of nature and adventure to familiarise ourselves with the outdoors once again.

Munsiyari is perched at an altitude of 2,200 metres. The town is populated by simple, hospitable locals and surrounded by snow-clad mountains. It has something to offer every kind of traveller and makes for a great base camp for many popular treks. We embarked on one to Khaliya Top, a snow-covered alpine meadow squatting at an altitude of 3,500 metres.

The steep trek of about eight kilometres tested every muscle in our bodies. But we endured on the difficult, and sometimes slippery, trail to reach the top. The peak blessed us with a once-in-alifetime view. The pristine white snow, the clear blue sky, and the mighty Panchachuli peaks— bathed in golden light on the horizon—came together to create the perfect antidote for our lockdown blues. In hindsight I can say that was the most memorable evening of our week-long trip, and possibly the year.

A dramatic landscape seen from Munsiyari as the sun sets over the snow-capped Panchachuli peaks—a set of five Himalayan summits.

Clockwise from left: Ram Jhula, an old iron bridge that extends across the Ramganga River, is ideal for a leisurely stroll; the most breathtaking stretch of the trekking route to Khaliya Top; a thin stream burbles amid tall deodar trees in the forests of Jageshwar Dham; the idyllic town of Almora is shaped like a horseshoe and surrounded by old oaks and tall pines.

Clockwise from left: The descent from Khaliya Top offers views of white mountaintops and blue skies; the cascading water of Birthi Waterfall en route to Munsiyari; terraced fields near Kapkot village, where agriculture is the primary occupation.