Travel + Leisure - India & South Asia

Design Your Own Odyssey Around Paxos



Qatar Airways (qatarairwa­ and Aegean Airlines

( offer connecting flights to Corfu with stopovers in Doha and Athens. From Corfu, you can catch a ferry to Gaios, the capital of Paxos.


The Thinking Traveller (thethinkin­gtraveller. com) has a handpicked collection of soulful villas on Paxos. Demand has been high since European travel reopened last summer, but weekly rates are surprising­ly affordable and include transfers from Corfu—as well as a never-toomuch-trouble concierge service. Aperghis, which sleeps eight, starts at `4,78,051 per week. For pull-out-all-the-stops villas equipped with extravagan­t accessorie­s (speedboats, chefs, and yoga instructor­s), look towards Five Star Greece (fivestargr­eece. com). Patrizia Peracchio’s estate, Paxos PTR, sleeps up to 22 and costs `20,16,778 per week.



This trendy spot has a lovely backyard enveloped by greenery. Go for brunch (the coffee and eggs Benedict are excellent) or a twilit aperitif. Entrées `896–`1,568; Magazia; paxos


Don’t let the booming Greek ballads put you off— this seaside taverna is a knockout. Order a Jenga tower of battered zucchini shavings dunked in blush-pink taramasala­ta, unctuous octopus with orzo, and the homemade pistachio gelato. Entrées `822–`1,419; Levrechio; bouloukost­


Stop for a Greek coffee at this old-fashioned kafenio across the road from Averto. Magazia; 30-2662-030239

Café Kalimera

A prime spot for watching all the comings and goings in the capital, this local hangout has a split personalit­y: al fresco tables under a bower of bougainvil­laea for breakfast and a lively dive-bar vibe after hours. Gaios; 30-26620-32318


Gold Lounge Café Thin-crust pizzas, legit Greek salad, and spinetingl­ing mojitos on a deck floating above a blue lagoon—this is what you came for. Entrées `822– `1,718; Mongonissi; 30-26620-32650

Le Rocher

Hidden down an alley beside a bakery, this tiny bar has a secret terrace on the water’s edge, just big enough for a handful of tables. Pitch-perfect at dusk as the horizon turns lavender and lilac. Loggos; 30-26620-31115


Run by the same family since 1957, this quaint-looking taverna has evolved into one of Paxos’s most sophistica­ted dining spots. Sea-urchin bruschetta with taramasala­ta and samphire with black rock salt are served quayside by a polished crew. Entrées `971–`1,867; Loggos; vassilisre­

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