Off beaten track in the Philippines

The Philippines is known the world over for its pristine waters and white sandy beaches, but there’s a lot more to the nation than its aquamarine life. Whether it’s being buried under a mound of volcanic sand to soak in its properties, or learning how to

Ihad often been a spectator to my friends gushing about their trip to the Philippines, Boracay in particular, and heard nothing but stories about how clear the beaches were, or how the nights would come alive till the wee hours of the morning. So when I chanced upon the opportunity to visit the nation, I immediately drew a picture of it in my head –the food and the beach. However, what I witnessed completely took me by surprise. A 300-year colonisation by the Spanish from the early 1500s to late 1800s, followed by the Americans and briefly by the Japanese during World War II, have left footprints that continue to shape the heritage and culture of presentday Philippines. From the names of roads and cities, to names of people, the Hispanic culture still flourishes in every nook and corner. The

fusion of foreign cultures seep through the distinct architecture, and colourful jeepneys ply the roads as taxis as reminders oof a war-torn country. Agriculture is the main ooccupation and you will notice fields of common ccash crops like rice and tobacco as you drive from one province to another, although localslo say it is a fading profession. But theth conviction with which the nation is trying to build itself is commendable, comm end ab as the Business Process Outsourcing (BPO) segmentsegm drives the growth in theth economy. The rising skyline of Makati, the business centre of Manila, gives the impressionimpre of a gradually developing develop in metropolitan.

More than 7000700 islands make up the Philippines, out of whichw Luzon is the largest. It is also home to the bustlingb capital Manila and for this reason, is the most important and well-visited one. The international airporairport in Manila is a major hub and is the gateway for frequentedfreq places like Cebu, Boracay, Bohol and Davao amamongst others. The capital is like any other city – sprawlingspra with activities and roads filled with chock-o-block traffic that never seems to slow down. But as you stray from the cityscapes towards the suburbs, the lush greenery set against the backdrop of modest mountains comes into view, and that’s when you really begin to appreciate the scenic beauty. The country boasts several UNESCO World Heritage Sites that will leave you in awe, and soon enough you will realise that a week is not even close to being enough to explore the archipelago. As small as it may look, the Philippines in reality is expansive, and travelling from one place to another can be slightly tedious. If you are looking for a getaway that has world-class beaches but is not limited to it, the Philippines strikes the perfect balance. Here are five unconventional and off-beat activities that you can explore if only the beaches don’t cut it for you: PUERTO PRINCESA SUBTERRANEAN RANEAN RIVER NATIONAL PARK, PALAWANWAN Located on the idyllic island provincence of Palawan, some 74 km northwest of Puerto Princesa city, the Underground River is an astounding piece of nature’s work. The 8.2 km-long Cabayugan River flows through St Paul’s mountain or thehe Sleeping Giant, right into the sea, and within its dark and eerie ecosystem, hordes of bats and pythons thrive. Visitor boats are re allowed to go in as deep as 4.5 km and as you make your way into the river, the brightness and heat of the day is replaced with a cool and nd unnerving surrounding that gets darker arker as the boat silently bobs further in. Enormous stalagmites and stalactitestes come into sight, the result of acid rain tricklingkling along the crevices and fractures of the limestonetone mountain, which resemble various vegetables, fruits and even scenes from the Last Supper in thee section aptly termed ‘The Cathedral’. Water (and bat droppings) still drips from the rocks above, indicatingting a ceaseless process. Visitors are warned fromm touching the surroundings and are advised to observeserve silence to avoid contamination and disturbance. e.

The Underground Undeerground River is enclosed by a lush tropical tropicalp forest forestf which has over 800 plant species, 174 birds,bird 38 mammals, 28 reptiles and 12 amphibiansamphibi and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, andan was recently included in the New 7 WondersWonder of Nature. Over 1500-2000 visitors throng the attraction each day so travellers are advisedadvise to pre-book their permits online. With internationalintern airport finally commencing operations,opera a substantial increase in the numbernumb of tourists is expected this year.

PAMULAKLAKINPAM FOREST TRAIL,TRA ZAMBALES

The Forest Trail in the Subic Bay area is set amidst a dense tropical forest, a threehour ho trek from the village of the Aetas. TheTh Aetas are a group of indigenous peoplep of the mountains who, despite severals foreign invasions, were not colonisedc and live off the bounties of the forest. Nestor, who is among the few Tagalog-speaking Aetas, takes us along the trailtra along with his friendly four-legged friend Whitey and points out the uses of various tree barks. The tribe obtains their daily resources from the land they live on. They use the bark of trees for medicinal purposes, to make essentials like ropes and even acquire water. We are then introduced to Tata Kasui (or ‘cashew’), a 67-year-old Aeta who takes pride in his roots and gleefully shows us how the modestd tb bamboob can beb used d as a weapon, as utensilst il and to cook his favourite chicken, and also to create fire from the shavings. Kasui makes sure to mention that every morsel cooked is always offered to the gods as a sign of respect. Since the area has been developed as a tourist attraction, several Aeta ladies try their luck at entrepreneurship and sell bottles of organic honey and small bamboo souvenirs by the road. Away from the concrete jungle and in the presence of simple inhabitants who live a humble yet fulfilling life, I sense echoes from the woods that say money can’t buy happiness.

PUNING HOT SPRING AND SPA, PAMPANGAS

If you are one for unconventional wellness therapies, this is definitely a must. The thermal springs are situated in the province of Pampangas, which is approximately a four-hour drive from Manila. Hot springs are a common occurrence in

areas of volcanic activity and the Philippines is replete with 23 active ones. After a change of clothes, a 4x4 takes you on a dirt track which you later realise is a dried riverbed, and a rough 30-minute ride later, you arrive at the hot springs. While I had imagined a slightly more rustic set-up, I was pleasantly surprised at the modern infrastructure encasing the springs that were made to look like mini swimming pools complete with cabanas. After a dip in three different pools of varying temperatures, we soaked up enough minerals and headed to the spa. Little did we know what awaited us. The exclusive treatment at the Puning Spa uses the goodness of volcanic ashes and sand to replenish the body. Buried neck-deep in the warm-to-hot sand, I began to relax and closed my eyes only to realise a man was actually walking all over me. After getting over the initial shock, we are told that the spa employs the local inhabitants of the land called Negritos or the Bushmen, who are generally small in stature and that the activity is a part of the whole wellness process. The sand is then dusted off and a mud-paste of the volcano ashes is applied, al fresco style. However strange the process may sound, the natural resources do make a huge difference to your skin and leaves you with a soft, dewy glow.

VIGAN HERITAGE TOWN, ILOCOS SUR

Imagine driving past fields of tobacco and little huts with coconut flower pots popping up by the road every now and then. You kind of get used to this sight so when a quaint vintage European town comes into the picture, the experience is nothing less than remarkable. Cobbled streets stretch out on Calle Crisologo with antique houses from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries on both sides of the roads, like an ode to the Spanish-Mexican-Chinese heritage, filling the air with olden-day charm. Here, even eating in modern franchises like McDonald’s and the local McDonald’s-style JolliBee will feel like a fine-dining experience while taking a trip to Watsons will take you back into the days of yore. Kalesas or horse-drawn carriages are aplenty in every nook and corner to give you a tour of the little heritage town.

The Vigan Cathedral or St Paul’s Cathedral is the biggest landmark in the area, and along with three other churches in the country, it is collectively called the Baroque Churches. These churches are known for the Earthquake Baroque style of architecture, a common style in the olden times, employed to withstand earthquakes. The Syquia Mansion Museum on Quirino Boulevard gives you a sneak peek into the lives of the rich and famous. It belonged to the wife of the late President Elipidio Rivera Quirino, who hailed from a wealthy Chinese family, and weaves tales of not just the affluence and opulence but also the discrimination between the rich and the poor. The Vigan Heritage Village as well as the Baroque Churches are well-acclaimed attractions and are a part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. HONDA BAY, PALAWAN Of course, no trip to an island is complete without island hopping and however cliched or done-to-death it might be, not making time for water activities on one of the most beautiful islands in the world is close to blasphemy. If you are facing time crunch, Honda Bay serves as the easiest and most accessible beaches, thanks to its proximity to the city of Puerto Princesa. Four islands (Luli, Starfish, Pandan and

Cowrie) are open for hopping throughout the year and are just a 30-minute drive from the city and an additional 20 minutes by a speed boat. Most are privately owned. Luli Island is one of the private islands and the name has been coined from ‘lulibog’ and ‘lilytaw’ which means rise and sink – it is the only island that descends and rises above the water according to the tide. Try being an early-bird and reach the island before anyone else does as the remoteness can truly give a spectacular swimming experience. Pandan Island offers more water sport options like kayaking and snorkelling. The waters are extremely clear and as it gets deeper, life underwater manifests into a parallel universe of dancing sea weed, sea urchins, starfish and fascinating corals. One benefit of shallow waters is that you can observe the marine life, unlike other places where it’s just too dark and deep to see anything clearly. Honda Bay is especially a good place to make your debut snorkelling trip since a guide is present to chaperon you. A good time in the water always builds up an appetite and the restaurant on the island serves fresh abalone, crabs and clams upon order but the buffet with local sea food and fruits is a treat on its own.