VISION OF EVERYDAY PARIS
PARIS HAS ALWAYS CONTRIBUTED SOMETHING DIFFERENT TO WORLDWIDE FASHION. FOR THIS FALL/WINTER SEASON, HOWEVER, EVERYDAY LIFE BECAME THE MAIN FOUNDATION
There is continuous competition among the world’s fashion capitols to be the biggest, the most influential and so on. Paris, however, has long maintained its position at the top. With a unique, luxurious persona and a strong identity, the City of Light offers new inspirations and a fresh feeling of “must have” via Paris Men’s Fashion Week. And it is this constant chase for what’s new— from brands to designers— that will always drive people to Paris.
There is, of course, more than meets the eye as people and brands contemplate how to create new excitement. In this case, Louis Vuitton gave us perhaps the best example. Inspired by artists like Warhol and Basquiat, the brand’s menswear show during this fashion week became a celebration of New York style in all its eclectic, artistic and aesthetic glory.
This fall/winter season also marked the first collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Supreme— the street-wear brand founded in 1994 by James Jebbia. The result was a capsule collection comprising clothing, accessories and jewelry. From parkas and baseball jackets, to denim outerwear, baseball jerseys, hoodies and more, all of the pieces stood alongside Louis Vuitton’s own wares while bearing the new Monogram variation combined with Supreme’s iconic box logo.
It didn’t end there, however, as inspired by this fusion, Louis Vuitton created yet another series of accessories and bags. With contrasting shades of Epi leather and Monogram canvas, these pieces perfectly embodied the brand’s legendary Parisian savoir- faire and its new interpretation of New York’s street styles.
Meanwhile, Lucas Ossendrijver from Lanvin goes in the opposite direction. He left one simple word, “nothing,” as a clue to his collection. “This season, although the designs are very studied, they are also easier, more rooted in reality where nothing is uniform,” the famed artistic director elaborated. “There is no elaborate concept, no decorative effect.”
The real highlight of Lanvin’s fall/winter collection was how Ossendrijver simply focused on the essence of design, construction and proportions. A close- fitting suit with narrowed shoulders was contracted even further; oversized sweaters were shortened; check shirts, duffle coats, chino pants and parkas were all reworked; collars were modified to create a subtle draped effect; and finally, an oversized coat was visibly trimmed. More than ever before it’s the work on fabrics, the technique, the play on proportions and subtle shifts that allow these everyday items to really shine.
Speaking of which, Hermès under Véronique Nichanian also played with proportions and volumes, with special attention to the materials and craftsmanship. The French maison’s attention to detail was particularly evident in the choice of fabrics and the compositions of the garments. The collection starts with patchwork prints on wool sweaters, cashmere coats and sheepskin sweaters with sheared motifs, then moved on to flannel weekend bags and a blast of the past with oversized fanny packs—which the brand dubbed Cityslide messenger bags.
“There is no elaborate concept, no decorative effect” opposite page from one of the most highly anticipated collaborations this season: supreme’s name emblazoned on a louis vuitton scarf
Furthermore, Hermès combined the romantic nuances of double- breasted suits with the rock twist of skinny leather pants. The resulting “rock- mantic” pieces don’t really follow a specific theme, but can easily be worn for just about any occasion. After all, it’s Hermès we’re talking about. The brand remained faithful to its classic and minimalist spirit and it certainly looks like everyone’s thrilled about it.
On the other end of the spectrum, Givenchy made a statement with vibrant pieces adorned with pre- Columbian artwork. “I reinterpreted the American West with my own eyes,” said Riccardo Tisci. This, by the way, wasn’t a typical Tisci show. For Givenchy’s fall/winter ’ 17 collection, he moved away from last season’s darker nuances and instead created something positive, optimistic and even enthusiastic.
Tisci described the collection as an ode to the American West as seen through the eyes of a child. From knitwear wrapped with pre- Columbian patterns to portraits of Native Americans emblazoned on T- shirts. The house’s signature stripes were combined with bold tribal- inspired motifs on a series of sweaters, navy jackets and coats featuring oversize brown buttons. That last addition threw the garments’ classic proportions off- balance with extra-wide, V- shaped necklines and exposed shirt collars.
All in all, this time around in Paris’ fashion showcase, luxury was not found in decoration, but in simplicity. Or, more to the point, in ingenious work on shape and construction. As is usual with Paris Men’s Fashion Week, this is a direction that will be celebrated all across the globe for the months to come.
“Everyone wants something new and completely fresh”
left to right givenchy’s ode to the American West through colorful stripes; Lanvin’s play on proportions on a suit and check shirt; a model holding Louis Vuitton X Supreme monogram trunk
Opposite page A Cityslide waist pack and complete look from hermès