THE NEW NORMAL
DIAL DOWN THE CRAZY AND BRING FORTH THE SUITABILITY, AS SHOWCASED BY THIS YEAR’S FALL/WINTER MILAN FASHION WEEK
“ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA MANAGED TO TRANSCEND TIME; MAKING A SAVAGELY POETIC AND FLUID NOTION ABOUT CONNECTION”
Besides great food and monumental landmarks, Italy has long been famous for its artisans. Just look at how the words “Italian” and “craftsmanship” go together so naturally and how the two together has basically become synonymous with fine quality. While this is, of course, not always true, there are plenty of examples that live up to it. Take, for example, Ermenegildo Zegna, one of notable brands to open the last fall/winter Milan Fashion Week ( MFW).
The show was held in an immensely large indoor space decorated with seven monumental towers called “The Seven Heavenly Places” by Anselm Kiefer. To make it more aesthetically pleasing, the fashion show featured a live musical performance by French pianist Mattias Mimoun.
Expectations were, of course, high; especially as Ermenegildo Zegna’s newly appointed artistic director Alessandro Sartori, previously from Berluti. His return— he has previously worked with the brand before— marked the genesis of a new fashion language: sports couture.
The collection encompassed knitted hoodies, turtlenecks with relaxed fit napes, frock coats and loose trousers integrated by a subtle color palette of off-whites, camel and gray. The couture vibe was omnipresent due to the incorporation of leather, silk, cashmere and alpaca wool embroidered seamlessly throughout the clothes.
While the collection did have a youthful feel to it, the idea— in fact the DNA— of this collection was about integrating the same values shared by different generations. The runway show had young and elderly models alike walking side by side with clothes that were clearly interchangeable. Age easily becomes unapparent as the attires coherently flowed from one to another. Somehow, Ermenegildo Zegna managed to transcend time to create a fluid poetic notion about connection.
It was hard to top off the grandeur of Eremenegildo Zegna this fall. But Prada comes in neck and neck by presenting their most normal collection at MFW. See, the spectacular thing about Prada showing for this fall/winter season is that it wasn’t spectacular at all. It was, hands down, the most unspectacularly spectacular collection Prada had ever made.
It consisted of V- neck sweaters, fur belts, suede accented shoes and an immense amount of corduroy pants, suits and jackets—which, by the way, is very in style this season. Color-wise, the collection was dominated by shades of brown, resulting in a very old- fashioned and ’ 70s look.
While there were voices decrying the collection as “boring,” it was, in fact, a thoughtful anthology of clothes that felt real, candid, and in a way, deeply personal. It is a subtle testament to human desire for something real.
There’s no doubt that seeping it normal was in many designers’ mind this year. From Giorgio Armani’s sartorial collection to Diesel Black Gold’s