DA MAN

A CENTURY OF FIRSTS

AS CITIZEN WATCH CELEBRATES ITS 100TH ANNIVERSAR­Y, THE BRAND PRESENTS ITS PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE. JOEZER MANDAGI REPORTS FROM JAPAN

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the early developmen­ts and continued innovation in watchmakin­g are usually attributed to the big, historical swiss brands. yet, Japanese companies have long been key players that have helped shape the modern world of watchmakin­g. of course, this should not come as a surprise: Japanese culture, much like that of the swiss, emphasizes timeliness, precision and technologi­cal innovation. And perhaps the best argument for the case of Japan’s watchmakin­g prowess would undoubtedl­y be the Citizen Watch company, which this year celebrates its 100th anniversar­y.

last April, i had the opportunit­y to see for myself how Citizen Watch maintains strong ties with its heritage and roots in the past, how it fares in the present and what the company has in store in the future.

The Past

My journey with Citizen Watch started at the company’s museum in tokyo. The tour of the museum started with a short film highlighti­ng the history of the brand and many of the milestones it has accomplish­ed through the years. The main highlight of the museum itself, however, was a 24-meter-long display showcasing more than a hundred watches representi­ng major achievemen­ts and important timepieces featuring technologi­cal milestones.

The length of the display was not an arbitrary choice, but instead represente­d the 24 hours of a day. so, in a way, the museum compressed nearly a century’s worth of history (at the time, the latest watch on the display was from 2016, just a couple of years shy of the brand’s centennial) into a single “day.” some of the watches on the

display were historical­ly important, including one of the first wristwatch­es to bear the Citizen moniker produced in 1924, one of which was purchased by emperor showa. There were also plenty of firsts: The Citizen parawater which was the first Japanese water-resistant wristwatch, the X-8 Chronomete­r which had the world’s first titanium case and so on. The display also traced the debut and developmen­t of many of Citizen’s most famous innovation­s, from the quest for the thinnest watch movements, radio-controlled— and later on gps-equipped—watches and, of course, eco-drive technology.

beyond impressive, the visit to the Citizen Museum certainly set the stage for the next stages of the tour.

The Present

The next leg of my journey brought me to iida, in nagano prefecture, where i got to see Citizen Watch’s main factory for manufactur­ing mechanical movements and luxury watches. it’s interestin­g to note that Citizen doesn’t only manufactur­e watches and watch parts, but also the machines used to produce said parts. it is, in a way, a very comprehens­ive approach to manufactur­e d’horlogerie.

back to the iida factory itself, the facility was designed to correspond to the needs of mass, mid as well as limited quantity production. to this end, the factory includes both automatic manufactur­ing lines as well as workshops where seasoned meisters assemble high end timepieces by hand. The contrast between the two can be quite fascinatin­g.

At one level, fully automated At-3 lines churns out one movement piece per second with only a handful of personnel in attendance. on another, semi-automated lines where movements and cases are assembled share the same space as the workshops of the meisters. While the whole operation has a much more industrial­ized vibe to it, especially when compared to the more idyllic image of watch manufactur­es in the Jura mountains of switzerlan­d, Citizen’s iida factory beautifull­y showcases the harmonious exchange between cutting-edge automation and traditiona­l craftsmans­hip.

The Future

What is next for Citizen Watch? That question is perhaps best answered by the caliber 0100, a prototype eco-drive movement introduced earlier in the year at baselworld 2018. presented in the form of a not-for-sale pocket watch (which is a clear nod to the original Citizen pocket watch mentioned before), the movement is accurate to +/- 1 second a year. “Watches have always been about accuracy,” says norio takeuchi, Citizen’s managing director and general manager of sales, in a short interview. “We always believe that with the caliber 0100, and even beyond that, there are new frontiers that we can continue to discover.”

This sentiment is echoed by noboyuki tanaka, general manager of the product management section, who said that Citizen will basically keep “doing the same thing” in regards to how it will continue innovating. “We will keep chasing fundamenta­l technologi­es,” he then clarified, “together with things that are new at the time and on the market.”

And perhaps this is the key to Citizen’s continued growth, as embodied by its motto: better starts now. essentiall­y, the brand kept asking what it is that makes a watch better. At one time it was watches that are powered by light, then it became watches that are extraordin­arily thin. now it’s watches that are incredibly accurate. in other words, for Citizen, “better” is infinite and it always starts now.

“What it is that makes a watch better? For Citizen, ‘ better’ is infinite and it always starts now”

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 ??  ?? Historical pieces at the Citizen Museum in Tokyo
opposite page The workshops at the Iida factory where meisters assemble high end timepieces by hand with a semi-automated manufactur­e line in the background
Historical pieces at the Citizen Museum in Tokyo opposite page The workshops at the Iida factory where meisters assemble high end timepieces by hand with a semi-automated manufactur­e line in the background

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