New Rules


DA MAN - - Special Report -

Tommy Hil­figer un­der­stands what his cus­tomers want. He lis­tens, and from that, he con­jures a norm-break­ing trav­el­ing spec­ta­cle cu­rated ex­clu­sively for his fans. most re­cently, he brought that to shang­hai, on a balmy tues­day night at the port cruise ter­mi­nal, lo­cated at The bund.

kick­ing off a day be­fore new york fash­ion week, the tom­mynow fall 2018 run­way show marks the brands fifth “see now, buy now” fash­ion show after new york, Los an­ge­les, Lon­don and mi­lan. This meant that there was no six-month wait for the clothes, a move opted by many lux­ury fash­ion brands. “mil­len­nial cus­tomers want im­me­di­ate grat­i­fi­ca­tion,” Hil­figer said a day be­fore the show. “They want to see some­thing on the run­way and buy it that day to wear the next day.”

Then there’s the trav­el­ing fash­ion show it­self, another norm-break­ing move from the con­ven­tional fash­ion week calendar. Hil­figer even com­pared it to a world rock tour. but why shang­hai? “we re­ally be­lieve that go­ing to where the cus­tomers live is very im­por­tant. and shang­hai to me is one of the fash­ion cap­i­tals in the world,” he an­swers. “we think that the chi­nese mil­len­nial con­sumers are so in tune with what’s go­ing on in the world and we want to em­brace them as well as hop­ing that they’ll em­brace us even more.”

rest as­sured, he’s not the only one who wanted to em­brace the chi­nese mar­ket. michael kors, coach, gucci, tif­fany & co and many other brands have tapped ex­ten­sively into the coun­try, and specif­i­cally its mil­len­nial mar­ket. Last year in novem­ber, vic­to­ria se­cret also brought its fash­ion show to shang­hai. so, it seems that it’s the per­fect time for tommy Hil­figer to bring tom­mynow to shang­hai, which the brand deemed its “high­est growth po­ten­tial mar­ket.”

And So It Be­gins

as ex­pected, tommy Hil­figer did it with a splash, with over 1,000 guests in at­ten­dance, in­clud­ing vips and celebrities from around the world. eyes and cam­eras were par­tic­u­larly drawn to exo’s chanyeol and girls gen­er­a­tion’s taeyeon, whose ar­rivals set off greater com­mo­tion than the ma­jes­tic shang­hai sky­line be­hind it. yet the big­gest wel­com­ing cheers was re­served for bri­tish f1 rac­ing cham­pion Lewis Hamil­ton, who won his fifth ital­ian grand prix just two days be­fore the show.

guests were ush­ered to take their seats through a Hall of fame tun­nel filled with gi­ant por­traits of tommy icon’s, many of whom walked on the show, like Hai­ley bald­win, winnie Har­low or mag­gie Jiang. after the tun­nel came the view of the glit­ter­ing waters of the Huangpu river and the col­or­ful sky­scrapers across the

pudong sky­line—one of which has a tommy Hil­figer flag on it. The river cruises pass­ing by sim­ply added to the show’s aes­thet­ics.

All In­clu­sive

The run­way it­self pro­ceeded in an orderly fash­ion with three sep­a­rate col­lec­tions. first, there’s the tom­myxLewis col­lec­tion, which marks Lewis’ first col­lab­o­ra­tion with tommy Hil­figer. “if that [auto rac­ing] is his num­ber one pri­or­ity, this [fash­ion] would be his sec­ond,” said Hil­figer.

on that ac­count, the pieces were a clear merge of the two per­son­al­i­ties: Hamil­ton’s street-style and tommy Hil­figer’s clas­sic amer­i­can cool dna. or, as the show notes puts it: sports-prep meets street. “it’s all the stuff that i love and i would wear,” Hamil­ton said back­stage. “i like tak­ing risks all the time. i like wear­ing col­ors and i don’t like dial­ing it down. i don’t feel like i ac­tu­ally have to dim my light in or­der to make peo­ple around me com­fort­able. i like to shine as bright as i can and en­cour­age oth­ers to do the same.” How does that trans­late to the clothes? well, per­haps Hil­figer de­scribed it best when he sum­ma­rized the col­lec­tion in one word: eclec­tic. “it has a sport side, it has lo­gos, mil­i­tary in­flu­ences, color and fit and fab­ric that are mod­ern,” he ex­plained. true to his word, the tom­myxLewis de­liv­ered a di­verse range of cloth­ing, with easy-to-wear pieces that’ll ef­fort­lessly fly off the shelves.

to start, a swarm of color-co­or­di­nated track­suits in red, ca­nary yel­low, green, white and black opened the show, as 28 mod­els—led by Hai­ley bald­win, mag­gie Jiang and Lucky blue smith—stepped out along­side socks and slid­ers. sev­eral track­suits had the word “Loy­alty” on the back, taken di­rectly from Hamil­ton’s arm tat­too—a value that his fa­ther in­stilled in him since he was young. socks and slid­ers, mean­while, had ei­ther that or Hamil­ton’s ini­tials 'H', styled in gothic and serif. some­times, the ini­tials were placed on top of tommy Hil­figer’s white and red flag, which serves as the col­lab­o­ra­tive logo of the tom­myxLewis col­lec­tion. These were present through­out streetwear essen­tials like hood­ies, var­sity jack­ets, and fanny packs worn across the body. ath­leisure styles also came to the front as track­suits were paired with a point-col­lared mil­i­tary pea coat and zip-up boots.

all that be­ing said, pieces from the tom­myxLewis col­lec­tion that fea­tured fewer lo­gos were even more com­pelling. one such piece is the mil­i­tary-green parka jacket that has two zip-thru lay­ers, mean­ing that there is another de­tach­able jacket in­side the parka for two coats in one. another high­light is the mul­ti­color check pat­tern on box­ers, shirt or hoodie shirts, in­spired by tommy Hil­figer’s multi-plaid shirt from the ’90s.

The Hil­figer col­lec­tion—the sec­ond one—was more tra­di­tional. but it also show­cased re­worked clas­sics plucked from the ’90s. by def­i­ni­tion, it fea­tured his sig­na­ture flag. in the Hil­figer col­lec­tion, he showed a wide range of riv­et­ing coats, in checks, patch­work, color-blocked mo­tif or clas­sic mil­i­tary-styled. turtle­necks, one in vin­tage mo­hair, are also re­worked with looser napes. col­le­giate stripes, mean­while, were rein­ter­preted in mul­ti­ple col­ors and fea­tured the tommy Hil­figer crest from 1985. The fi­nal col­lec­tion, tommy icons’ women’s col­lec­tion, echoed the same spirit, us­ing clas­sic Hil­figer pat­terns reis­sued with re­laxed pro­por­tions and mod­ern ways.

al­to­gether, a to­tal of 112 looks were pre­sented that night. fi­nally, the show was closed by Hil­figer and Hamil­ton walk­ing hand-in-hand down the run­way, fol­lowed by an army of tommy’s icons, dubbed “The Lead­ers of now” and “The icons of to­mor­row.” it was an iconic mo­ment, which left many ex­cited and won­der­ing in an­tic­i­pa­tion just what will tom­mynow do next? and where?

“tom­mynow is al­ways evolv­ing. it’s like an amoeba. it’s al­ways mov­ing,” Hil­figer ex­claims. “we use our spon­tane­ity and our gut to lead us into what is go­ing to hap­pen next.” so, there’s al­ways go­ing to be some­thing un­ex­pected to look for­ward to from the spec­tac­u­lalry non­con­form­ing tom­mynow.

“It has a sport side, it has lo­gos, mil­i­tary in­flu­ences, color and fit and fab­ric that are mod­ern”

Lewis Hamil­ton and Tommy Hil­figer back­stage; Tom­myXLewis Mil­i­tary-green parka; mul­ti­color check hoodie; Hil­figer col­lec­tion's check hooded long coatOp­po­site page Group shot of Tommy Hil­figer's Fall 2018 show

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