A MATCH MADE IN (FASHION) HEAVEN
One of the hottest collaborations of the season comes from Virgil Abloh and Nigo
Borne out of a longstanding camaraderie and shared passion, Virgil Abloh invited Japanese streetwear designer Nigo to partner up for a one-off line called LV2, or Louis Vuitton squared, for the brand’s Pre-Fall 2020 collection. This standalone collaboration between Abloh and Nigo fuses their individual approaches to fashion design under the Louis Vuitton banner.
The capsule collection consists of ready-to-wear pieces, leather goods, shoes and accessories that feature dedicated graphics and interpretations of Louis Vuitton’s signatures. While celebrating the travel-centric theme of the house, LV2 observes the London Mod-era dandy through a Tokyo lens. This cross-pollination sets the tone for a tailoring-focused collection, evoking chapters in the formative years of Nigo—who found much of his early inspiration in the subcultures of London throughout the city’s long history—while honing the traditional sartorial values proposed in the Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2020 collection for men by Virgil Abloh.
The following are excerpts from an interview with Nigo about what sparked the collaboration and his insight into the collection.
How did your collaboration with Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton come about?
I’ve known Virgil for a long time— probably about 15 years. He came to my studio in Tokyo after he had started the LV job and asked if I’d be interested in doing something together. He knows that I also have a long relationship with LV: I’ve been a customer and collector for years. And, it’s not the first time I’ve worked with LV—in 2004 Marc Jacobs asked Pharrell and I to design some sunglasses, the original of the Millionaire model that Virgil recently referenced.
I’ve been friends with Michael Burke for over 10 years, too, and I think I probably introduced Virgil to him back when he was the CEO of Fendi. It feels like a good time for us to all come together.
How did you and Virgil Abloh approach the Louis Vuitton capsule collection?
Virgil simply asked me to come up with some ideas, initially. Since the brand LV has always meant a lot to me, I knew immediately what I wanted to do. It was then a process of seeing which ideas he thought we should pursue and refining it together with Virgil’s team in meetings in the Paris atelier. It’s really very similar to my usual working method and everything happened very smoothly. I really enjoyed it.
How would you describe the capsule collection and why did you select Mod as the influence?
It was important for me to create a complete look for this collection, not just an assortment of cool items. As a part of that and, since this is LV, I knew that I wanted to make a suit as part of this collection. I’ve always liked the slim cut of Mod suits, to be worn with a heavy coat over the top, for example. But I feel there’s something in the LV brand that works with the Mod aesthetic. It’s a brand with history, of course, but it’s always had a progressive, modernist outlook to compliment the classic pieces. The inspiration of ’50s and ’60s Nouvelle Vague cinema is clearly part of the roots of Mod, and LV is such a Parisian brand. When I was first obsessed and influenced by Quadrophenia—representing the late ’70s Mod revival—I probably didn’t yet recognize the influence of modern European design on that look. But now it seems a natural fit for LV.
How did you blend the worlds of Nigo and Virgil Abloh with the Louis Vuitton universe?
I am very conscious of my interpretation of what Louis Vuitton stands for and how it should look. My focus was on the shapes and on things from Louis Vuitton’s history that I wanted to reinterpret.
Considering his position, it’s logical that Virgil’s role is to change the rules. So, his interpretation of what can be Vuitton is freer than mine. That helped especially with things like graphics. It’s hard for me to know what is “right” in terms of graphics for LV, but Virgil really pushed that and encouraged me. I am also used to working with my own system of production and I was able to be introduced to many new possibilities by Virgil and the Louis Vuitton team.
Rather than being streetwearfocused as some might expect, the capsule collection is definitely sartorial and tailoring-focused. Why did it feel relevant to you to explore this area of menswear?
Well, it’s for LV and I selfishly designed things that I would personally want to find in LV stores. I’ve always made tailored clothes and been fascinated by the look and process. To me. this is a logical place to explore that further.
What are the messages and spirit of the capsule collection? What does it stand for?
My aim was to present a complete look within this small collection that can provide a different angle from which to view the Louis Vuitton brand as a whole. I have felt a real connection to LV since I can remember, so for me to be able to express that through my own interpretation, at a time when Virgil is Creative Director, is a genuine pleasure.